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Title: In-Door Gardening for Every Week in the Year
Showing the Most Successful Treatment for all Plants
Cultivated in the Greenhouse, Conservatory, Stove, Pit,
Orchid, and Forcing-house
Author: William Keane
Release Date: February 27, 2010 [EBook #31423]
Language: English
Character set encoding: ASCII
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IN-DOOR GARDENING
FOR
EVERY WEEK IN THE YEAR:
SHOWING
THE MOST SUCCESSFUL TREATMENT FOR ALL PLANTS
CULTIVATED IN THE
GREENHOUSE, CONSERVATORY, STOVE, PIT, ORCHID, AND FORCING-HOUSE.
BY WILLIAM KEANE.
THIRD EDITION.
LONDON: JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER OFFICE, 171, FLEET
STREET.
1865.
IN-DOOR GARDENING FOR THE MANY.
JANUARY.
FIRST WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Cinerarias.--The plants intended for large specimens must receive their
final shift, and be allowed sufficient space to expand their foliage
without interfering with or injuring each other. The side-shoots to be
tied out.
Epacrises.--As some of them will be preparing to burst into flower, a
little arrangement may be necessary in tying them out to display their
spikes of bloom more advantageously.
Fuchsias.--If wanted early, the plants that were first put to rest
should be selected, and be fresh potted, cutting back the roots,
beginning with a small-sized pot; to be shifted into larger when the
roots have extended to the outside of the ball. Place them in a nice
moist temperature of 50 deg. by day and 40 deg. by night.
Heaths.--To be looked over, and the dead and decaying leaves removed.
The most forward in bud--such as the _Vestitas_, _Vernix_, _Vasciflora_,
_Aristata_, _Beaumontia_, and many others, to be tied out, and arranged
for the season.
Pelargoniums.--When large specimens are wanted, tie out the branches at
equal distances, and down as near to the rim of the pot as possible.
Air to be given at all favourable opportunities. Water to be given but
sparingly, and not overhead.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Be careful that the night temperature is not raised too high: if kept
at 50 deg. in severe weather no ill consequences will result. The
atmosphere to be kept rather moist, especially if the weather is bright;
and all plants indicating an appearance of starting into bloom to be
removed to the warmest part of the house.
Clerodendrons.--To be shaken out of their pots; their roots reduced and
repotted into small pots in a light sandy loamy compost. Sow seeds, and
also of any hard-wooded stove plants.
Water to be given very cautiously to the Orchids, merely sufficient to
prevent the plants from shrivelling; and to do this effectually it is
necessary to look over them every day. The air of the house to be kept
moist by sprinkling the pathways, floors, tables, &c., daily. If any
plant is found not to have ripened off its bulbs it should be placed in
the warmest part of the house, and the ripening process encouraged. The
Brassias, Cyanoches, Coelogynes, Miltonias, and other such plants, when
they are beginning to grow, to be repotted. The compost to consist of
turfy peat mixed with a portion of charcoal or broken potsherds, and the
pots to be at least half full of very open drainage.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cherries.--Very gentle excitement to be given by fire or artificial
heat, with kindly humidity, and abundance of air.
Figs.--Although they will bear a higher degree of temperature without
injury than either Cherries or Peaches, it is advisable to begin
cautiously, as it frequently happens that the more haste with fire the
less speed with fruit, and that favourable opportunities of sun and
light must be embraced for making sure progress with them.
Peaches.--Where the trees are coming into bloom it is necessary to be
cautious in the application of humidity, and when they have expanded
their flowers to withhold it altogether for a time. Fire or other
artificial heat to be applied moderately--that is, from 45 deg. by night
to 55 deg. by day, particularly when dark and gloomy weather prevails.
The houses now commencing to force to be kept moderately moist, and in
a sweet healthy state, syringing the trees pretty freely once or twice
a-day with tepid water. Shut up early on sunny days, and sprinkle the
paths, floors, flues, or pipes frequently.
Vines.--When they have all broken, the superfluous buds must be rubbed
off, and the young shoots stopped as soon as they are long enough to
admit the points of the shoots at one bud above the bunch being
broken out. In vineries now commencing to force, adopt the practice of
producing, where it can be applied, a kindly humidity by means of dung
and leaves, or other such fermenting materials. If they are to be broken
principally by fire heat, either by flues or hot-water pipes, copious
syringings must be resorted to with tepid water once or twice a-day.
Fire heat to be applied principally by day, with air at the same time,
and very moderately at night.
SECOND WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The plants will now require particular attention and a nice
discrimination in the application of water: it may be comprehended by
all persons interested in gardening operations, that when the soil on
the surface of the pot looks damp it will not require water until it
gets thoroughly dry at this season, and then it is to be given before
the plant droops or flags for want of it. But when the plant droops and
the soil on the surface appears damp, the cause is then to be discovered
by turning the ball out of the pot, when it will be seen whether the
whole or only a portion of the soil is wet; as it sometimes happens,
when fresh potted with light soil, it shrinks from the sides of the pot
when dry, and when water is given it runs down and moistens the outside,
without penetrating the ball. The evil is corrected by holding it for
a short space of time in a tub of water of the same temperature as the
house. If the soil of any plant is sodden with water it should be turned
out of the pot, and the drainage examined, and no water to be given
until it becomes thoroughly dry.
Verbenas.--They require to be kept tolerably dry, as they are more
susceptible of injury from damp than from cold; a top shelf near the
glass in the greenhouse is a very suitable place for them. If mildew
appears, to be dusted with flowers of sulphur.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Although all plants now at rest should be kept comparatively dry, they
will require to be looked over daily to see that they do not suffer for
want of water. The temperature not to exceed 60 deg. by fire heat, and
a fall of 10 deg. may be allowed at night in very cold weather. Many of
the stove plants--such as Aphelandras, Justicias, Poinsettias, &c.--may
now be cut down altogether, and kept dry for a few weeks, which will
cause them to make an early growth, and to come into flower a few weeks
sooner next winter.
Gesneras.--Select a few roots of them and a few of the Gloxinias to
start into growth to produce a succession of flowers.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Asparagus.--If the soil in the bed is dry, give it a liberal supply
of water, so that it may descend to the roots, as unproductiveness is
sometimes caused by the soil at the roots being very dry when the top is
kept moist by gentle waterings.
Beans (Dwarf Kidney).--Sow every three weeks, if a constant supply is
wanted. Keep the early crops well supplied with water, and give them
frequent sprinklings overhead, to prevent the attacks of red spider.
Mushrooms.--An abundance of water to be thrown about the floors. If the
beds are dry, to be syringed with lukewarm water, applying it like dew
at intervals for a few hours. Temperature from 50 deg. to 60 deg., with
air occasionally in favourable weather.
Peaches.--Continue previous directions. The trees in bloom to be
artificially impregnated, and the foreright shoots to be rubbed off
a few at a time before they become too large. Currents of air to be
carefully avoided, especially when the trees are in bloom, as they have
been sometimes observed to sustain injury from the two end doors
being left open for a short time. Air to be given at the top daily in
favourable weather.
Pines.--As the days lengthen and the light increases the plants that are
swelling their fruit should be supplied with a gradual increase of heat
(from 65 deg. at night to 75 deg. or 80 deg. in the middle of the day in
clear weather), water, and atmospheric moisture; while others that
are in bloom and starting into fruit require more air or more moderate
temperature, care in watering and less atmospheric humidity. Some of
the strongest succession plants that are grown in pots to receive their
final shift, that they may make their growth for fruiting in May or
June. In old-fashioned pits or houses, where the flues run near the
tan-bed, the plants should be closely examined, as they are apt to be
injured by fire heat in such a situation.
Strawberries.--A few dozens more pots may be placed in a frame where
there is a gentle heat and an atmosphere more congenial to their healthy
growth than in a house.
Vines.--When they have made shoots two or three inches long, the night
temperature to range from 60 deg. to 65 deg., with an increase of from 5
deg. to 10 deg. during the day.
PITS AND FRAMES.
Keep the plants in these structures as hardy as possible by fully
exposing them in mild weather, but do not give any more water than is
absolutely necessary. Remove all decayed and decaying leaves, and keep
the atmosphere in as healthy a state as possible.
Make small hotbeds for sowing Cucumbers and Melons, Radishes and _Early
Horn_ Carrots, Cauliflower and _Walcheren_ Broccoli, Lettuce, and
various other things, which will be found useful where the late severe
weather, or other cause, may have diminished the autumn sowings.
THIRD WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Ventilation is requisite in mild weather, as stagnant air is always
unfavourable, especially to the plants blooming in the conservatory.
Water sparingly, and damp the house as moderately as possible, as water
settling on the flowers will soon destroy them. When the plants, bulbs,
or shrubs in the forcing-pit have developed their blossoms, let them be
removed to the conservatory, where they can be preserved much longer in
perfection. The plants to be looked over every morning, and every dead
or decaying leaf and flower to be removed.
Heaths.--Fire heat should only be given when mats or other such
coverings are not sufficient to exclude frost, as nothing so much
injures the constitution of the Cape Heaths as a close, damp atmosphere.
Air should be allowed to circulate freely amongst them at all
opportunities.
Pelargoniums.--The plants intended for specimens should be finally
shifted. Air to be admitted at all favourable opportunities, and a
slight increase of temperature given. To be kept near the glass, and
free from green fly. If they have made no winter growth they will now be
the better prepared to progress in a robust, healthy state.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Amaryllis.--Attend to the shifting of them as soon as they show signs
of growth. Let them be placed in the stove, and give a little water,
increasing it gradually as the leaves unfold.
Orchids.--If other departments of gardening are likely to occupy more
time than can be very well spared as spring operations accumulate very
fast, it is advisable to proceed with the potting of Orchids from this
time forward, beginning with those that are showing signs of growth.
Peat cut into from one to two-inch cubes, fresh sphagnum to be soaked in
boiling water, to destroy insects, and charcoal lumps, with an abundance
of crocks, are the materials to be used. Any plants that had become very
dry should be immersed in tepid water for an hour the day previous to
shifting. The climate of the countries and the localities from whence
the species come are the best guides to their successful cultivation;
as the treatment required for _Oncidium Carthaginense_ would kill _O.
bifolium_, and _Cattleya Forbesii_ will thrive where _C. Skinneri_ will
die, and in like manner with many others.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Capsicum.--Sow seeds of the large sort in pans or pots, to be placed in
heat. When the seedlings are an inch or two high pot them singly into
small pots, and replace them in heat; to be afterwards shifted when
necessary until the end of May, when they may be planted out on a south
border.
Cherries.--Plenty of air, atmospheric moisture, and a very moderate
temperature, are the requisites for them. If the buds are beginning to
swell, 45 deg. will be enough to maintain by fire heat, lowering the
temperature down to 40 deg. at night, with a moist atmosphere.
Cucumbers.--The plants in bearing to get a top dressing of fresh, rich
soil. Keep a sharp look out for the destruction of insects. When the
plants in the seed-bed have made one rough leaf pinch off the leading
shoot above it, so as to cause the plants to throw out two shoots from
the axil of the leaves. Cuttings put in and struck in the seed-bed will
come into bearing quicker than seedling plants.
Peaches.--If the weather is very dull and unfavourable for giving air
where the trees are in bloom, it is advisable to shake the trellis
towards noon for dispersing the pollen.
Pines.--Proceed with the routine as advised in last Calendar.
Strawberries.--Keep them close to the glass, and remember that they are
impatient of heat: let 45 deg. be about the maximum, with a very free
circulation of air. If they are plunged in a pit or dung-bed, let the
bottom heat be about 70 deg. maximum, with an atmospheric warmth of 55
deg. to 60 deg.. In such a situation they will want scarcely any water
until they begin to throw up their blossom-spikes.
Tomatoes.--Sow seed of the large. To be treated as advised for
Capsicums.
Vines.--To be looked over carefully, and as soon as they are
sufficiently forward to distinguish the embryo fruit all useless shoots
to be removed--that is, all that do not show fruit, and are not required
for wood next season. It may also be necessary to take off some of the
shoots that show fruit where they are very thick. If two shoots grow
from one joint one of them should be removed.
FOURTH WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The compost intended for the plants in these houses should be prepared
and sweetened by several turnings; and a sufficient supply for immediate
use should be stored in an open shed.
Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--To be potted into larger pots as they
require them; compost equal parts of turfy loam, peat, and leaf mould,
with a sprinkling of silver sand. To be kept in a moderately-moist
atmospheric temperature of from 45 deg. at night to 55 deg. in the day.
To be slightly syringed with tepid water on sunny days, and to be kept
free from insects.
Fuchsias.--After the old plants are shaken out of their pots, and their
roots reduced and fresh potted in a compost of turfy loam and peat,
with a little leaf mould and some sand added, to be introduced to a
temperature of 60 deg.. When some of the young shoots are an inch long
they may be taken off, and inserted in pans of sand kept damp, where
they will soon take root, and will require to be pushed on in heat to
make fine large specimens for the conservatory or flower garden.
New Holland Plants.--Water them with care and moderation. Air to be
given freely night and day in mild weather. Fire heat to be applied
only, and then merely sufficiently, to exclude frost. The strong shoots
of the vigorous young stock to be stopped in due time as the best
foundation for future good specimens.
Sow seeds of Thunbergias, _Phlox Drummondi_, Mignonette, _Ten-week_ and
other Stocks, in pots, to be placed upon a slight hotbed.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Achimenes.--Place the tubers thickly in pans, to be potted singly as
they appear, in equal portions of leaf mould and sandy loam; to be
started into growth in a moderate bottom heat.
Gloxinias.--Select a few varieties. To be shaken out, and fresh potted
in equal parts of turfy loam and heath soil and a little sand. To be
excited in bottom heat.
Gesnera zebrina.--Those which were first in flower should be dried off
for early work next season. This is to be done by withholding water
gradually, and by keeping their foliage still exposed to the light.
Sow seeds of Egg Plants, Cockscombs, Amaranths, and other such tender
annuals in heat, to grow them in good time into fine specimens for the
adornment of the conservatory in summer.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cucumbers.--The plants preparing for ridging out early in February will
require attention in airing, and watering with tepid water occasionally
when dry, and to be kept close to the glass to produce sturdy growth.
The plants on dung-beds require great attention at this season. To be
kept within eight or nine inches of the glass; to be stopped regularly;
and to maintain a heat of not less than 70 deg. by day; to be able
to give air to dry the plants. The fermenting materials to be always
prepared ready to receive the linings when the heat declines. For those
who are fortunate enough to be provided with pits heated by hot-water
pipes, such constant labour and attention will not be necessary.
Melons.--To be treated as advised for Cucumbers.
Peaches.--When the blossoms are beginning to expand, discontinue
syringing, but sprinkle the pathways, to produce a moist, but not too
damp, and consequently a healthy, state of the atmosphere. Fresh air is
indispensable and should be admitted at every favourable opportunity;
and if the cold external air could be made to pass over the flues, or
hot-water pipes, so as to get warmed before coming in contact with the
blossoms, a gentle circulation would be constantly kept up until the
fruit is fairly set.
Pines.--Great care is necessary when syringing, more especially those
that are about throwing up their flower-stems, that no more water may
lodge in the hearts of the plants than will evaporate during the day.
But if, from any cause, a portion remain until evening, it should be
drawn away by means of a syringe having a long and narrow tube at the
end of it, or by a piece of sponge tied to the point of a small stick.
Strawberries.--When these are throwing up their blossom-spikes a little
liquid manure may be given, but it should be very weak, and perfectly
clear. A succession of plants to be introduced where there is a gentle
heat. The decayed leaves to be trimmed off, the surface of the soil to
be stirred, and the pots to be placed on shelves near the glass.
Vines.--Continue the treatment as advised last week.
Keep up a succession of Kidney Beans, Asparagus, Sea-kale, and Rhubarb.
PITS AND FRAMES.
Cuttings of Anagallis, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Lobelias, Salvias, and
Verbenas may now be struck in a gentle bottom heat, and pushed forward
to make good sized plants for bedding out when all danger from frost is
over.
FEBRUARY.
FIRST WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Proceed with the potting of the young plants in the greenhouse, and the
small specimens of all kinds, using the soil tolerably rough, with a
liberal sprinkling of sand, and good drainage. To be kept rather close
until they make fresh roots.
Azaleas (Indian).--Introduce a few into heat; to be fresh potted before
starting them, giving a rather liberal shift into good peat and sand,
with thorough drainage. A moist-growing temperature between 60 deg. and
70 deg. to be maintained, with plenty of air in favourable weather. Sow
seed, as likewise Rhododendron, in a gentle bottom heat.
Kalosanthes.--To be started into growth, potting them in a compost of
half turfy loam, one-fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth decomposed leaf
mould, with plenty of coarse gritty sand, and an admixture of charcoal
and pebbles or potsherds broken small. A liberal shift to be given, and
to be kept in a temperature of from 45 deg. to 50 deg..
New Holland Plants.--Select young plants of the Boronias and other such
families, and give them a liberal shift; they delight in good fibrous
heath soil, with a good portion of sharp sand, and plenty of drainage.
It is advisable to pick off the flowers, and to pinch off the tops of
the young shoots during their growth, to form handsome specimens.
Orange Trees.--Be vigilant that scale and all insects are removed from
them and from Neriums, and other such plants before they begin to grow,
as young wood and foliage are more difficult to clean without injury.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Stove plants in general will now require an increase in the amount of
atmospheric moisture, and a slight advance in heat; such an advance to
be made, more especially on bright afternoons, when solar heat can be
enclosed in good time, and with it a moist and congenial atmosphere.
Crinums.--Pot them if they require it, but without disturbing the ball
of earth about their roots; to be favoured with an increase of heat
to start them afresh, and during their active growth to be liberally
supplied with water.
Gloriosa superba.--Shake out the roots, and repot in good fibrous loam,
with a sprinkling of sand, and place them in bottom heat. No water to be
applied to the tubers until they have commenced their growth.
FORCING-PIT.
Continue to introduce for succession bulbs, Lilacs, Roses, Sweet Brier,
and the many other plants previously recommended as suitable and
useful for that purpose. A temperature of from 65 deg. to 70 deg. to be
maintained, with plenty of moisture in clear weather.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Figs.--Trees in pots to have their shoots stopped when they have made
three or four joints, and to be supplied occasionally with liquid
manure.
Melons.--The fruiting-beds to be prepared and in readiness for the
reception of the young plants as soon as they have nearly filled their
pots with roots.
Peaches.--If a house were started, as advised at the beginning of the
year, a second should now be set to work. Syringe the trees several
times a-day in clear weather, and once or twice in all weathers until
the flowers begin to expand. Attention to be given to the early house,
when the fruit is set, to thin it partially, but to leave one-third more
on the trees than will be required to ripen off. If Peaches are intended
to be grown in pots for next season, the maiden plants should now be
procured, and potted in nine or ten inch pots. The _Royal George_ Peach
and _Violette Hative_ Nectarine are the most eligible for that purpose.
Pines.--If any indications of the presence of worms appear on the
surface of the pots a watering with clear lime water will remove them.
The same steady temperature to be kept up in the fruiting-house or pit
as lately advised. Although it is sometimes recommended we would not
advise to withhold water at the roots for the purpose of starting them
into fruit; for if, by proper management, they are good, healthy plants,
they will have formed their fructiferous parts before this time, and
therefore should not be allowed to get dry, but be watered when they
require it with tepid water.
Vines.--The successional houses to be treated nearly in all respects
the same as the early houses; the temperature may now be increased in
accordance with the increase of light rather more rapidly at an early
stage of their growth than that of the house in which forcing was
commenced in December. When Vines for the early crops are grown in pots,
put the eyes in 60-sized pots, and plunge them in a dung-frame or pit,
with a bottom heat between 70 deg. and 80 deg.. The _Hamburghs_, _Black
Prince_, _Muscadine_, and _Sweetwater_ are the kinds to be preferred for
that purpose.
SECOND WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
As plants naturally, after their season of rest during the winter, now
begin to grow, it is advisable to shift the young stock, and all others
that require it, into fresh soil, by which they will be the better
enabled to progress to a healthy-blooming state without check or
hindrance. Although from this time to the middle of March is to be
considered the most favourable season for a general shift, nevertheless
it may be necessary to shift some plants more than once or twice during
their season of growth.
Climbers.--To be attended to, removing weak and dead wood, and cutting
back to three or four eyes where an increase of young shoots is
desirable. To be frequently syringed, to keep down red spider, as they
are more liable than other plants to be infested by them.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
The advice given for the shifting of the general stock of greenhouse
plants will also be applicable to the fresh potting of the stove plants.
Begonias.--Being of free growth they delight in fresh soil, consisting
of equal parts of sandy loam and leaf mould. As a general rule they are
repotted in February and August; but exceptions are sometimes made, and
a shift is given whenever the roots become cramped or matted in the pot.
The knife to be used cautiously, unless with the tall-growing sorts.
Gloxinias.--To be now started, if not done as advised a fortnight ago.
When planted press the roots gently on the surface of the soil, and
give them no water for some time; as the moisture in the soil will
be sufficient at first until they begin to grow, when a little may
be given, and the supply to be gradually increased as they advance
in growth. When potted to be removed to a frame or pit where the
temperature is about 60 deg..
Luculia gratissima.--To be potted in a compost consisting of half
turfy loam, one-fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth leaf mould, with good
drainage.
Musa Cavendishii.--To be repotted in a compost of turfy loam, vegetable
soil, or well-rotted manure, and a small portion of sand, with plenty of
drainage. To be plunged in a brisk heat in a bark-bed, and to keep the
roots moist.
Many of the Orchids may now be potted, and then placed in the warmest
part of the house. The plants that are not shifted to be supplied with a
little fresh material, taking care that the embryo buds are not covered.
Look over the fastenings of all that are on blocks, or in baskets, and
renew the wires where necessary. The temperature to be about 65 deg. by
day, allowing it to range to 70 deg. or 75 deg. by sun-heat.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cherries.--Keep up the temperature from 50 deg. to 55 deg. while the
trees are in bloom, with as little variation as possible. The trees not
in flower to be frequently syringed.
Cucumbers.--The greatest attention should be paid to the state of
the bed for the first fortnight after the plants are turned out; the
heat-stick (a stick stuck into the bed) should be examined, being, as
it is, a much better criterion to judge by than a thermometer, which
is generally used to indicate the heat of the atmosphere in the frame;
cover up according to the heat of the bed. If it will allow it, a small
portion of air should be left on every night, which may be given in the
evening after the frame has been closed for two or three hours. Keep up
the heat by stirring, renewing, or topping-up the linings; and attend
to the stopping of the plants, and the earthing-up of the hills, as the
roots make their appearance on the surface.
Melons.--Pot off the plants when the seed-leaves are fully expanded.
Peaches.--When the trees have set their fruit, give the roots, if
growing inside the house, a good watering with liquid manure, mixed with
soft hot water, so as to be of the temperature of the house, or a little
above it. The syringe to be used several times a-day in clear, mild
weather as soon as the fruit is set.
Pines.--Pot the succession plants. If the pots are full of strong,
healthy roots, pick out the crocks carefully without injuring
them, leaving the ball entire, and giving them a good shift. But if
unfortunately many of the roots are dead, shake the ball entirely away,
and cut out all that are dead, preserving such as are alive and healthy,
and potting them in fresh soil.
Strawberries.--Keep up a succession by placing a few dozen pots in a
gentle heat once every fortnight or three weeks.
Vines.--All laterals to be stopped in due time, and all useless buds and
branches to be removed; the leading shoots to be tied in regularly, and
the bunches to be thinned. No more bunches to be left on each Vine than
it is likely to bring to perfect maturity. About one dozen bunches are a
good average crop for each rod. The temperature to range from 55 deg. to
60 deg. at night, with an increase of 5 deg. to 10 deg. during the day,
and even higher during sunshine.
THIRD WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The plants occupying the beds in the conservatory to be arranged,
cleaned, and pruned. If the health or habit of a plant, or other
considerations, should render it desirable to prolong the season
of blooming, the pruning may be postponed for a week or two longer.
Continue to pot Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Pelargoniums, and all other
such plants when they fill their pots with roots. To be then kept close
for some days until fresh root-action begins. Green fly to be kept down.
Verbenas.--Put them in heat, to get cuttings; as also Heliotropes, and
all other such plants, of which there is a scarcity, for bedding-out
purposes.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Increase the moisture and temperature gradually as the days lengthen.
Start old and young plants of Clerodendrons, Dipladenias, and
Stephanotis, in a sweet bottom heat. Rondeletias to be cut in, and
started in the same manner.
Shift all Orchids that are starting into growth. As a high temperature
causes a premature and unhealthy growth it is advisable to keep up a
healthy atmosphere of from 55 deg. to 65 deg., with an increase of a few
degrees in sunshiny weather, when a little air, if only for a very short
time, should be admitted; but be careful to avoid draughts at this early
period of the year. All growing plants to be watered at the roots only,
being careful not to allow any water to lodge in the axils of the leaves
to cause decay. To preserve the roots of some Orchids in a healthy state
it is necessary to grow them on blocks of wood; the blocks to be made
proportionate to the specimens they are intended to bear; and the heel
of the plant to be placed close to the end of the log, to give as much
space as possible for the plant to grow upon. The following thrive well
on blocks without moss:--_Barkeria spectabilis_, _Leptotes bicolor_,
_Phalaenopsis amabilis_, and _Sophronitis cernua_, the Brassavolas, the
Cattleyas, nearly all the dwarf Epidendrums, all the Laelias, and nearly
all the dwarf Maxillarias and Oncidiums, and all the Schombergias.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cucumbers.--Attend to the thinning and stopping, and impregnate the
fruit blossom when open.
Figs.--Care to be taken that cold currents and sudden changes of air are
excluded from the trees. The roots to be well supplied with water, and
the trees to be occasionally syringed overhead.
Peaches.--When set, thin the fruit and shoots as required; to be done
gradually, a little at one time, to prevent any sudden and injurious
change in the system of the tree. A liberal supply of moisture to be
kept up, with a temperature ranging from 55 deg. to 65 deg. and 70 deg.
by sunheat. A drier atmosphere is advised for trees in bloom; the
bloom to be thinned if the trees are weak; and if shy setters, to be
artificially impregnated, using a camel-hair pencil for that purpose.
Pines.--Be watchful about the bottom heat, and lose no time in raising
the pots nearer to the surface if an approach to a burning temperature
is apprehended. To be thoroughly watered when they require it, and to be
syringed overhead in the morning and evening of every clear day unless
the plants are in bloom, or ripening their fruit. Any crowns, suckers,
or small plants not well established will do well in a pit or frame on a
bed of leaves, or well sweetened dung, where they will make a rapid and
vigorous growth during the summer.
Vines.--Attend to last week's instructions as to stopping all laterals,
&c., and thinning the bunches in good time; and tie up all the principal
shoulders with soft strands of matting. Never allow the head or hand
to touch the berries. Give them plenty of air-moisture during their
swelling season; to be discontinued when they begin to colour.
Shy-setting sorts--such as the _Black Damascus_, _Cannon Hall Muscat_,
&c.--will set better by thinning the blossom-buds before expansion,
by which a more regular and compact bunch will be produced. Late
Vines should be pruned and dressed; and if not frosty the lights to be
removed, which will retard their breaking, and benefit the trees.
FOURTH WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
During continued frosty weather fires must be kept up in these houses,
and then particular attention must be given to the New Holland plants,
Heaths, and such like, which are impatient of heat, that they do not
suffer from want of water. Be sure that the ball is thoroughly moistened
at least once a-week.
PITS AND FRAMES.
Amongst climbers, Calampelises, Coboeas, Lophospermums, Maurandyas,
Rodochitons, and Tropaeolums, deserve attention at this time, increasing
them by cuttings or by seeds. Some annuals are also worthy of attention,
such as Brachycomas, Phloxes, Portulaccas, Schizanthuses, with others
which may all be forwarded in heat. Whoever has not yet attended to the
propagation of plants for bedding out, should now begin, without further
delay, to put in cuttings of Fuchsias, Verbenas, Heliotropes, Petunias,
Salvias, Scarlet Geraniums, &c., to have good plants in May and June.
All straggling and weak shoots to be topped back to form robust, bushy
plants.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Some of the stove plants that have done blooming should be cut back,
such as the _Eranthemum pulchellum_, _Euphorbia jacquiniaeflora_,
_Geissomeria longiflora_, _Gesnera lateritia_, Justicias, _Linum
trigynum_, _Poinsettia pulcherrima_, and others. A bottom heat will be
necessary when they are repotted, which may be done in about three weeks
or a month. Such of the most forward plants, as they require shifting,
to be attended to. The condition or fitness for this must, in a great
measure, be determined by the progress the shoots and roots have made.
FORCING-PIT.
Continue to introduce plants of Azaleas, Hyacinths, Heliotropes,
Hydrangeas, Kalmias, Sedums, Lilacs, Narcissus, Pelargoniums, Pinks,
Rhododendrons, and Roses in varieties. A batch of last year's young
Fuchsias, Erythrinas, and _Salvia patens_, to be shaken out, repotted,
and placed in bottom heat. Sow Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranths, &c.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cucumbers.--Attend as previously advised to thinning and stopping, set
the fruit blossom when open, keep the inside of the frames watered with
warm water, and apply some occasionally to the roots. Water overhead on
fine days, shutting up with 75 deg. or 80 deg. of heat.
Cherries.--They will be benefited by frequent syringings at all times
except when in bloom. Air to be given on all favourable occasions,
shutting up with as much solar heat as possible. Keep down the green fly
and look well after caterpillars.
Figs.--Maintain a kindly humidity, but do not syringe overhead, except
on very fine days, as too much moisture is apt to cause the fruit to
drop off or to turn yellow.
Peaches.--Tie in the forwardest shoots in the early-house as they
advance; gradually disbud and thin out all the shoots that are not
wanted; thin the fruit but not too much at once, and, with water of the
temperature of the house, syringe the trees that have set their fruit.
Remove large shoots cautiously, and reserve, in tying and disbudding,
merely sufficient wood for next spring.
Pines.--The atmospheric heat to be gradually increased in the
fruiting-house, and the plants to be frequently syringed, taking care
that no water is allowed to lodge in the hearts of the plants. The
plants swelling their fruit to be watered occasionally with clean soot
water, air to be admitted on every favourable opportunity, but cold
draughts to be avoided. A good heat to be kept up in succession-pits
worked with linings.
Strawberries.--To be placed near the glass with plenty of air, and in
favourable weather to be liberally supplied with warm manure water, and
the surface of the pots to be frequently stirred.
Vines.--As soon as the first swelling is completed, and the stoning
process commences, allow a little more liberty to the laterals to induce
a corresponding increase of root action. All shoots to be properly
trained up; but none to be allowed to touch the glass. All small bunches
to be removed when in flower. When the fruit is set, the heat by day may
be allowed to rise from 70 deg. to 80 deg.. See to the border coverings,
if out-doors, as also border waterings, if in-doors. Be careful when
admitting air to the early Vines, to avoid cold currents and changes,
for in the space of an hour we have sometimes strong sunshine, sleet
or snow, and cutting winds. Vines in pots to be supplied with plenty of
manure water in all stages of growth, but especially when swelling off
their fruit.
MARCH.
FIRST WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Frequent attention is now necessary in the giving and taking away of
air as the alternations of bright sunshine and clouds occur, and also to
temper cold winds by the admission of air on the south side. If
severe weather has been now experienced, and extra fire heat used in
consequence, many plants that may appear all right may, nevertheless, be
very dry, and if they are not examined, and when very dry, well soaked
with water, they will soon show unmistakeable signs of approaching
death.
Azaleas (Indian).--Young plants that have commenced their growth to be
repotted. Shift Achimenes, Begonias, Gesneras, &c., and keep them in a
warm, moist situation.
Bulbs.--Pot Cape and other bulbs in a compost of loam, leaf mould,
with a good sprinkling of sand, as soon as they begin to make growth in
foliage.
Heaths.--Continue to shift as they may require, using sandy heath-soil
full of fibres, with an abundance of drainage. Be sure that the ball
is thoroughly moist before shifting; for if perfectly dry when that
operation is performed the waterings afterwards given will pass freely
through the fresh soil without penetrating the old ball. Give them all
the air possible, avoiding north or north-east winds.
Potting must be in progress, and include a good proportion of the
occupants of these houses.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Push Allamandas, Clerodendrons, Stephanotises, &c., forward as briskly
as possible; but be in no hurry to train them, as freedom in growth is
advantageous to a certain extent. Use all means to check the increase of
insects.
Orchids.--The general collection to be favoured with a good steaming
every clear morning for about half an hour: this to be done by
sprinkling the flues or pipes when warm. Plants in a growing state to
be slightly shaded, to prevent flagging from too copious a perspiration
during a sudden mid-day bright sunshine. Orchids are generally increased
by passing a sharp knife between the pseudo-bulbs (taking care to leave
at least two or three undisturbed next the growing shoots) so as to
sever one or more of the dormant bulbs from the parent plant, which
should remain until it shows signs of growth, when it may be taken off
and potted.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cherries.--The syringe to be used freely except when in bloom, plenty of
air to be given, and the green fly kept down; shutting up with a little
extra solar heat in the afternoons of bright days.
Figs.--Abundance of syringing and good waterings with liquid manure
may now be given them. Sudden changes in their treatment will cause
the fruit to drop, all the shoots when six or eight inches long to be
stopped to encourage the formation of a second crop.
Melons.--Use strongish maiden loam by itself to grow them. See to the
linings, attend well to setting, and maintain an airy and dry atmosphere
when in blossom. Keep the shoots at all times thin.
Peaches.--Frequent attention to be given in arranging the young shoots,
disbudding and thinning. A knowledge of the state of the border is
necessary, whether retentive or porous, that no serious errors may be
made by withholding a sufficient supply of water, or by giving too much.
The temperature of the early house to be from 55 deg. to 60 deg. by
night, ranging from 75 deg. to 80 deg. by sun heat, and allowing 65 deg.
by artificial heat, on dull days.
Pines.--A day temperature of 75 deg. to 80 deg. to be maintained during
the progress of the fruit to maturity, accompanied by atmospheric
moisture. Succession plants to be supplied with a steady moist heat, and
to be carefully sustained after potting, to induce a healthy action of
the roots. Shading is sometimes necessary during bright sunshine.
Vines.--As the lower parts of the stems are generally close to the
heating apparatus, it is advisable to bind them up with moss or
haybands, neatly clipped, as far as the parching heat extends. The moss
or haybands being damped morning and evening with the syringe, will keep
the bark and stems in a healthy state, and will frequently induce a mass
of roots to be produced there. That by watering occasionally with liquid
manure will contribute to sustain the vigour of the trees.
SECOND WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
As the boisterous gales and violent showers that frequently occur
at this season, succeeded by intervals of mild weather and brilliant
sunshine, are frequently difficult to deal with, constant attention is
necessary that a free admission of air, when in a genial state, may be
given, and the cold, cutting east or north-east winds excluded. Frequent
watering will also be necessary, and fires to be dispensed with, or only
used occasionally, merely to ward off the rigour of sharp nights. The
plants in good health, and well rooted, to receive a liberal shift.
All plants when shifted to be accommodated with a little extra heat and
moisture in the atmosphere until they begin to make fresh roots, when
they will require to be more freely exposed, to produce a sturdy,
vigorous growth.
Camellias.--The plants that have finished flowering to be removed to
a higher temperature, where a moist atmosphere is kept up by frequent
syringings.
Cinerarias.--Tie out the principal shoots of the most forward, to form
handsome plants. Manure water of the temperature of the house to be
given occasionally. The more backward to be shifted into larger pots
as they may require them, and all to receive plenty of air, light, and
room.
Fuchsias.--They require to be accommodated with a warm, moist
temperature, both at top and bottom, and the free use of the syringe, to
make them large pyramidal specimens.
Pelargoniums.--Attention to be paid to their training, to watering, and
to the admission of air. Shift on young plants, and stop all that may be
wanted for late blooming.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Finish the shifting of all specimen plants in the stove as soon as
possible. A brisk, growing, moist temperature to be kept up during the
day, and to shut up early. They delight in a tan-bed where the bottom
heat ranges from 70 deg. to 80 deg..
Orchids will now require a regular looking over. Those on blocks of wood
with moss should have the moss renewed, and fresh turf to be supplied to
those in pots in a growing state.
FORCING-HOUSES.
The general routine in these structures will comprise disbudding,
tying-in advancing shoots, thinning the fruit, watering, syringing
morning and evening, airing, and shutting up early with plenty of
solar heat; and to be each and all attended to in good time to obtain
satisfactory results.
Cherries.--Caution in the application of water is now necessary, as
either too much or too little will cause the fruit to drop.
Cucumbers.--The heat of the beds, which will be found to decline rapidly
during cold winds, should be kept up by fresh linings; and air to be
given daily, to allow the superfluous moisture to escape, taking care
to prevent the wind from entering the frames by placing a mat or canvass
before the openings.
Figs.--A free supply of water, with liquid manure occasionally, to be
given to the most forward crop. Where there is the convenience, the
trees in pots are generally placed in a pit of rotten leaves into which
they root, and where they are allowed to remain until they have borne
their crops and ripened their wood, when the roots are cut back to the
pot. Trees planted out succeed best when confined in brick pits, where
short-jointed fruitful wood is produced without root pruning, which is
necessary when the roots are allowed to ramble without control.
Melons.--This is a good time to ridge-out plants, as the sun will have
a powerful and beneficial influence at the time when it will be most
wanted to ripen off the fruit. Pot off young plants, and sow seed for a
succession.
Pines.--Continue to keep up a regular and moist heat; to be supplied
with soot or other manure water occasionally during the whole time they
are swelling the fruit until they attain their full size; watering and
syringing overhead should be withheld when they begin to change colour,
to give flavour to the fruit. The succession-plants recently potted to
be very moderately supplied with manure water, and in a very diluted
state until their roots reach the sides of the pots.
Strawberries.--Introduce succession-plants under glass, according to the
demand. Keep the atmosphere dry when the plants are in bloom and near
the glass; admitting at all opportunities a good supply of fresh air
without currents.
Vines.--Persevere in thinning the bunches, as it is a mistake to leave
more on the Vine than it is likely to finish off to perfection. The
borders to be examined that a gentle warmth may be maintained at the
roots. When the Vines are planted inside, apply good soakings of manure
water occasionally. Thin the shoots of the late Vines as soon as the
bunches are perceptible.
THIRD WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Proceed as diligently as possible with the repotting of such of the
hardwooded greenhouse plants as require it, so as to start them in good
time to acquire a vigorous growth.
Cacti.--The chief point in managing these plants is to allow them an
alternate period of rest and growth. To be grown in a mixture of lime
rubbish and loam, with a little cowdung, and in well-drained pots.
In summer to be fully exposed to the sun, and well watered; and from
October to March to be kept perfectly dry.
Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--To be shifted into larger pots in a compost
of equal quantities of decayed turf, leaf mould, good sandy peat,
old cowdung, and silver sand, with plenty of drainage and moss on the
crocks. To be kept close for a week, after which air may be freely
given, avoiding currents of cold air.
Heaths.--Every vigorous shoot that is taking the lead to be stopped, to
produce a more uniform and compact plant.
Lilium lancifolium.--To be potted either in a good peat, with a little
silver sand, or in a light sandy loam, using also some silver sand. The
bulb to be placed two or three inches deep from the top of the pot to
allow room for the stem-fibres to penetrate the soil.
Pelargoniums.--The plants potted last month to be stopped back. The
house to be kept rather close for a week or ten days, to assist them to
push out their eyes. Those intended to bloom in May, that have not been
stopped since cutting down, will be putting up their trusses, on sunny
days syringe them lightly, and shut the house up warm, with the sun upon
it, about three or four o'clock in the afternoon.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Keep a lively growing temperature here during the day, with a plentiful
supply of moisture. Syringe, and shut up early, with 80 deg. or more,
allowing a fall of 20 deg. during the night. Shake out and repot in
succession the stove plants that have been previously recommended to be
headed back, and encourage a free growth by plunging them, if possible,
in bottom heat. Smaller pots to be used until they have filled them
with roots, they may then receive one bold shift that might probably be
sufficient for the season.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cherries.--These may now want thinning if too thickly set; but the
operation must be influenced by the energies of the tree and the action
of the roots. Endeavour to keep the atmosphere like fine mild weather
in May. During the period of the stoning of the fruit, give the trees no
water at the roots, as this is generally one of the chief causes of so
much of it falling off at that time.
Figs.--When the fruit is swelling off, the trees to be liberally
supplied with water. The young shoots to be stopped to four or
five eyes, with the exception of those that are required to fill up
vacancies.
Melons.--Continue the thinning, stopping, training, &c., as required.
Set the early crops when in blossom, keeping a dry and lively atmosphere
during that period. Air to be given freely in favourable weather, but
cautiously, with some contrivance to break cold winds. Do not allow a
plant to swell a fruit until sufficiently strong to sustain it.
Peaches.--Be moderate in the application of fire heat to those that
are stoning (they make little or no progress in swelling during the
period)--say 65 deg. by day and 60 deg. by night; but when they commence
their second swell increase the heat moderately. Stop all luxuriant
shoots, and thin out in the second house all clusters of fruit when
about the size of Peas.
Pines.--The fruiting plants will be benefited by a watering with manure
water as soon as the bloom is set. Succession plants, if recently
shifted, to be shaded in the middle of the day if the sun is powerful;
to be kept rather close and dry, except slight sprinklings over the
tops, until they have taken root, when they may be watered freely, and
will generally require no more to be given for a week or ten days.
Vines.--The atmosphere in the early house, where the bunches have been
thinned, to be kept pure by a gradual increase of air and moisture. The
night temperature to be kept up to 65 deg., with an increase of 10 deg.
by day, and even more in bright sunshine. The second house may now be in
bloom, and will require attention in tying the shoots and keeping up the
necessary amount of heat, with less moisture. Where the fruit is set,
give the Vines a good syringing, to wash off the flowers; after which
the leaves and fruit should not be again wetted, but to be supplied with
atmospheric moisture by watering the floor of the house, and sprinkling
the flues or pipes, or from evaporating-troughs or pans. Give plenty of
tepid manure water to the Vines fruiting in pots.
FOURTH WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
As the great proportion of greenhouse plants are now commencing, or are
in active growth, constant attention will be required for the judicious
regulation of temperature, and for the admission of fresh air during
fickle and ungenial weather, and in the supply of water to the roots,
and atmospheric moisture.
When settled fine spring weather has arrived, every plant which
inhabits a pot should be brought at once under review, and put in proper
condition for the growing season. No fear need then be apprehended from
potting. Keep up a moist atmosphere by sprinkling, &c., and admit plenty
of air, bearing in mind former directions as to draughts, &c. If the
plants in the borders, or any of the climbers, are dry, give them a good
soaking of weak, tepid manure water. Trellis climbers to be frequently
attended to--stopping, training, and arranging their shoots.
Balsams.--Encourage the growth of them and other such tender annuals by
potting them when the roots begin to cluster round the side of the pot.
Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Shift on the young stock, keeping the plants
well down in the pots, so as to bring the earth in the pots up to the
lowermost leaves, to induce the plants to throw out fresh rootlets from
the stem. Keep a sharp look out for green fly.
Climbers.--Prune off superfluous shoots; stop or pinch out the tops of
gross leaders, and keep them neatly tied and trained.
Cockscombs.--To remain in small pots until they begin to show flower.
Dahlias.--Pot off cuttings as soon as struck.
Fuchsias.--Continue to shift young plants into larger-sized pots,
according to their height and strength; to be kept growing by placing
them in a brisk, moist heat. Cuttings to be potted off as soon as they
are sufficiently rooted; to be placed in a temperature similar to that
in which they were struck.
Sow in heat seeds of stove and greenhouse plants.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Attend to regular shifting, watering, and a free and healthy circulation
of air, without draught, early in the morning to stove plants. Continue
to cut down, disroot, and repot, as advised last week, those which have
been flowering through the winter. To be then favoured with a bottom
heat of from 75 deg. to 80 deg., and slightly shaded during bright
sunshine.
Some of the young plants in the stove which are growing on for specimens
will probably require a second shift, see to them in time; and if
they are in good health treat them liberally by giving a large
shift, especially to plants of free growth. Give plenty of air at all
favourable opportunities, and saturate the atmosphere with moisture. The
surface of the tan to be stirred once or twice a-week, and sprinkle it
occasionally with manure water, to produce a moist, congenial atmosphere
about the plants. Shut up with plenty of sun heat. Look sharply after
mealy-bug and thrips.
Achimenes.--The plants established in small pots may be removed into the
flowering-pans, putting six plants into a pan.
Orchids.--Increase the temperature, and ply the syringe among them, as
they will now grow rapidly. Be careful not to throw too much water over
those sending out succulent flower-stalks, for they may damp off.
Ferret out and destroy cockroaches, woodlice, and snails. _Calantha
veratifolia_, _Neottia picta_, _N. elata_, Phaius of sorts, some
varieties of Stanhopea, _Zygopetaltum Mackayii_, and other such Orchids
that are now making their growth, would be benefited by an application
of clear, diluted manure water occasionally; a kindly humidity to
be kept up, and the shading to be in readiness for use during bright
mid-day sun.
PITS AND FRAMES.
Sow tender and half-hardy annuals; pot off those already up; give air
daily, and never allow the plants to flag for want of water. Pot
off cuttings of Dahlias, and continue the propagation of Fuchsias,
Heliotropes, Petunias, Verbenas, and bedding-plants generally.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Beans (French).--Give them, when in a bearing state, a liberal supply of
manure water, and see to keeping up a succession of them.
Cherries.--When you are sure that the fruit is finally stoned, the
temperature may be raised a few degrees; air and water overhead to be
liberally supplied.
Cucumbers.--As soon as the frames are uncovered in the morning give a
little air for an hour, to let the stagnant and foul air pass off, when
they may be closed again till the day is further advanced. As soon as
the principal shoots have reached the side of the frame, never allow any
of the laterals to grow more than two joints before being stopped. Stop
frequently, and thin liberally; where two fruit show at a joint pinch
one away.
Figs.--If red spider should be observed, wash the flues or the walls
exposed to the sun with lime and sulphur.
Melons.--Those lately planted out to be encouraged with a close, moist
heat, to get them into free growth as quickly as possible. The plants
that are fairly established to be kept cooler, admitting air at every
favourable opportunity, to produce short-jointed fruitful wood. The
shoots to be kept thin and regular, pinching out any that are not
wanted. The night temperature not to exceed 65 deg., and air to be
admitted as soon as the thermometer rises to 75 deg.; but to be given
very cautiously during cold winds. Prepare for raising plenty of young
plants for succession crops, and endeavour to have them strong and
vigorous by keeping them near the glass; to be provided, when they
require it, with plenty of pot-room. Keep up the heat in the beds
by renewing the linings; the coverings at night to be regulated in
accordance with the heat of the beds, taking care that the mats do not
hang over either the front or back of the frames.
Mushrooms.--Collect materials for fresh beds, and give those that have
been some time in bearing good soakings of manure water; sprinkle the
floor and heating apparatus occasionally. The conditions of success are
to have the materials for making the beds well prepared and sweet--that
is, free from rank steam, and the spawn to be put in whilst the heat
keeps regular and moderate, and the beds are coated over to keep it so
until the spawn is well established.
Peaches.--Remove all superfluous shoots, and tie in neatly those that
are left; thin the fruit that is swelling off before stoning, leaving
more than may be ultimately required, as, in stoning, it is liable to
drop off. Syringe the trees daily in fine weather. Where it is intended
to force Peaches, Cherries, &c., in pots next season, and some suitable
trees have to be provided, it should be no longer postponed. It is a
good plan to pot some maiden plants every year, to succeed any that may
become useless.
Pines.--Give plants swelling their fruit plenty of manure water, and a
humid atmosphere. The fruiting-house may range from 80 deg. to 85
deg. during the day, and as near 70 deg. as possible at night; the
succession-pits from 75 deg. to 80 deg. during day, and 60 deg. to 65
deg. at night. These particulars to be modified by the state of the
weather, whether sunny or dull.
Strawberries.--They require plenty of light and air to set their fruit,
when they may be removed without fear of injury to a stove, or any other
house or pit possessing a higher temperature. The plants swelling their
fruit require a liberal supply of water, and a sprinkling overhead
daily. When the fruit begins to change colour the sprinkling to be
dispensed with, and the supply of water at the roots to be given
sparingly.
Vines.--If the Grapes are colouring, a free circulation of air,
accompanied with a high temperature, will be advantageous. Attention
to be given, where fermenting materials have been used for warming the
borders, that the heat is not allowed to decline at present under the
influence of the March winds. Attend to last week's advice as to
tying, disbudding, &c., and proceed with the thinning the fruit in the
succession-house as soon as the berries are fairly set. When thinning be
as careful as possible of the bunches--neither pull them about with
the hand, by which rust on the berries is frequently produced, nor with
whatever the shoulders may be held up by at the time of thinning, as,
by the twisting of the stalks, shanking is not unfrequently produced.
Attention to be given in stopping all laterals, and breaking off all
useless shoots for the more free admission of light, which is most
beneficial in every stage of their growth. Look over houses where the
fruit is swelling, and see if any of the bunches would be improved by
tying up the shoulders. Any healthy Vines, but not of good kinds, should
be inarched before the wood gets too old.
APRIL.
FIRST WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The shifting and repotting of all specimen plants in these houses have
been completed, I hope, before this time; but if not, the sooner they
are done the better. Keep up a moist atmosphere, sprinkling the plants
with tepid water twice or thrice a week; and pay attention to the
destruction of insects the moment you can perceive them.
Camellias.--As the plants go out of bloom, it is advisable to syringe
them freely, shutting up early with solar heat, and maintaining a kindly
humidity during the time they are making their growth.
Fuchsias.--Supply them liberally with water when in full growth, and
shade slightly during bright sunshine.
Heaths.--To be kept free from strong currents of dry air; rambling
growth to be stopped.
Liliums.--Give them a liberal supply of water, and a top dressing of
turfy peat, sand, and well-decomposed cowdung.
New Holland Plants.--Give such plants as young Boronias, Dillwynias,
Dracophyllums, Eriostemons, Leschenaultias, Pimeleas, Polygalas, &c.,
a tolerably-close corner of the house; stop the young growth as it may
require it; keep them clean, and repot them when necessary.
Pelargoniums.--Tie and stake the larger plants neatly, without loss of
time, and shift the smaller ones into larger pots. The roots will feed
greedily on oyster-shells, broken very fine at the bottom of the pot.
Put in cuttings for flowering in September and October.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Keep up a sweet, moist atmosphere with a regular circulation of air,
using an abundance of water about the floors; and syringe frequently air
plants and others suspended. Shut up a solar heat, if possible, of 80
deg. towards three or four o'clock.
Achimenes.--Shift them, and also _Gesneras_, and pot others for
succession.
Begonias.--When the flowers begin to decline, the plants may be
reduced, and potted into smaller pots, and be kept close for some time
afterwards. Put in cuttings of them, if not attended to before; and
also cuttings of _Eranthemums_, _Euphorbias_, _Gesneras_, _Justicias_,
_Linums_, &c.
Clerodendrons.--Give them plenty of room and encouragement to grow.
Orchids.--They should have a mild, but regularly moist, atmosphere for
a few weeks until they begin to grow; no water to be applied until that
period, and then with moderation.
FORCING-PIT.
Get in Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranthuses, and other such plants
from the dung-frame, that will be useful for the summer and autumn
decoration of the greenhouse and conservatory.
FORCING-HOUSE.
Cherries.--If all the petals have dropped, and the fruit is set, the
temperature may be raised to 60 deg. by day and 50 deg. by night, and
syringed in the evening three or four times during the week. A sharp
look out should be kept for curled leaves, and the grubs that nestle in
them destroyed.
Figs.--If the fruit is swelling off, supply the trees liberally with
water; stop the young shoots at the fourth or fifth eye. Temperature, 65
deg. by day and 55 deg. by night.
Melons.--The supply of air and water must be regulated by the state of
the weather and the temperature of the bed. The plants sometimes show
one or two fruit at an early period of their growth, which should be
picked off, as they would prevent the swelling off of others. The vines,
or shoots, after being frequently stopped, and when they have nearly
filled the frame, or other allotted space, several fruit should be
impregnated at one time. Sow for successional crop.
Peaches and Nectarines.--Pinch off laterals, and tie in the shoots as
they advance in growth. If green fly makes its appearance, fumigate the
house; but if only a few shoots are infested, dip them in tobacco water.
When the fruit in the early house are stoned, thin them to the number
you wish to retain, and use a pair of scissors, which is better than
pulling them off.
Pine Apples.--The plants should now be making rapid growth, and,
therefore, will require a liberal supply of water. Fruiting plants may
now be turned out of their pots into prepared beds, selecting those that
are not very forward. The fruiting-house may range from 80 deg. to 85
deg. during day, and from 65 deg. to 70 deg. at night. The successions
from 75 deg. to 80 deg. by day, and from 65 deg. to 70 deg. at night.
Strawberries.--When out of bloom, give them a liberal supply of water,
syringe freely, and keep down insects by fumigation.
Vines.--If forcing were begun early in December, whether with Vines
in pots or established vines, the colouring process will have now
commenced. When such is the case, admit air freely on all favourable
opportunities; but avoid draughts, or cutting winds, which frequently
cause rust and other imperfections in the bunches. In the later houses,
attend to thinning, tying, and stopping laterals. The last house to
be closed early in the afternoon. As the buds, in most cases, will be
considerably advanced, it is advisable to syringe frequently; to
apply plenty of moisture to the floors and paths; and to postpone the
application of fire-heat as long as possible.
SECOND WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Some of the most hardy and woody plants may be removed from the
greenhouse to a cold pit, where they can be protected from frost. It
will make more room for the Cinerarias, Pelargoniums, and other such
plants.
Azaleas.--Such as have done blooming to be repotted, and their fresh
growth to be gently promoted in a higher temperature for a short time.
Camellias.--Continue to keep a moist atmosphere about the plants making
wood, with a temperature of about 65 deg. by day and 55 deg. by night.
Air to be given at all opportunities, to produce sturdy, short-jointed
wood. The plants in flower to be shaded during bright sunshine.
Cinerarias.--Regular attention to be given to them, that they may not
suffer by want of water.
Climbers.--Regulate them as they grow, more particularly those in pots
which are intended to cover a wire trellis. Kennedyas, Thunbergias,
Nierembergias, Tropaeolums, and other such plants of a slender and
tender habit, delight in a soil the greater proportion being composed of
leaf mould.
Chrysanthemums.--Strike cuttings, and pot off rooted suckers.
Heaths.--Any requiring repotting, should receive that attention without
delay, apportioning the size of the pot to the vigour of their growth;
as the free-growing kinds will require more room than the less vigorous
ones.
New Holland Plants.--As many of them are now either in flower, or
approaching that state, they will, consequently, require a larger
quantity of water,--more especially large specimens not shifted since
last season. Continue to pinch off the tops of the leading shoots, to
produce bushy plants.
Pelargoniums.--Attention to be given in tying up, watering, and
fumigating, if the green fly appears.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
As the soft-wooded stove plants will now be making rapid growth, the
free admission of light is necessary to prevent them from drawing; using
shade only during scorching sunshine. When a plant is shifted, give less
water to the roots; as the fresh soil, after the first watering will be
moist enough for some time. Some of the free-growing kinds of Cattleyas,
Calanthes, Phaiuses, Saccolabiums, Stanhopeas, and Zygopetalums, should
be encouraged to make kindly growth by frequent syringings about their
pots, blocks, or baskets.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cherries.--The principal objects to be attended to are--abundance of
air, with due precaution against cold draughts, a moist atmosphere, and
the free application of the syringe. The temperature the same as last
week. Particular attention in watering to be paid to the trees in
pots,--as too much is as bad as, if not worse than, too little.
Figs.--Continue stopping the young shoots at the fourth or fifth eye.
Keep the syringe in frequent use until the fruits begin to change for
ripening. Plenty of water, and occasionally a little weak tepid liquid
manure, to be given at the roots, more especially when they are confined
in pots or tubs.
Melons.--As soon as a sufficient number of fruit blossoms for a crop
are expanded, or are likely to expand within a day or two of each other,
they should be impregnated. As prevention is better than cure, keep
the plants in a healthy-growing state by frequent syringings in fine
weather, and closing early; insects will but rarely, if ever, attack
thriving plants.
Peaches and Nectarines.--As soon as the stoning of the fruit in the
early house is completed, give them a good watering with clear, weak
liquid manure; keep the shoots tied in regularly, and pinch off all
laterals. If the fruits in the late house are set, partially thin them;
as more dependence may now be placed on a crop than at an earlier period
of the season.
Pine Apples.--Fruiting plants will be greatly benefited by strong solar
heat, as, under its influence, evaporation will be rapid; therefore,
water must be applied to both roots and leaves. Succession plants to be
shaded during sudden bright sunshine or sunbursts; and be guided in the
application of water by the active or inactive state of the roots.
Vines.--Thinning the fruit is an operation of primary importance. The
first thinning to be performed when the berries are the size of Peas;
the second when they begin to be crowded; and the third after the
berries are stoned. A piece of strong wire, eight or ten inches long,
crooked at one end, is useful to draw the bunches backward and forward,
as the operator may require. The Vines in the late house to be tied up
as soon as they begin to break. Syringe them every fine afternoon, and
close the house early. Give air early in the morning, that the leaves
may become gradually dry before the sun acts powerfully upon them.
THIRD WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Keep the conservatory as cool by day as is consistent with the health of
the plants. By such means they will remain longer in bloom, and will be
more enjoyable for parties inspecting them.
Camellias.--Continue to encourage the growth of those that have done
flowering by increasing the temperature, by frequent syringings, and by
a liberal supply of water at the roots. If any have made their growth,
and have formed their blossom-buds, they will require more light and
less moisture for the future.
Cinerarias.--To continue them in a healthy blooming state it is
necessary to attend to them carefully, that they may not droop for want
of water, nor be saturated with it. When the sun is powerful, slight
shading is necessary for a few hours in the middle of the day, to
prevent the blooms from losing their brilliancy; and plenty of air to be
given when the weather is mild.
Fuchsias.--Having been treated with plenty of heat and moisture, they
will now be making rapid growth, and will be fit to shift into their
blooming-pots, using a light, rich soil for the purpose.
New Holland Plants.--Top and syringe frequently all such plants as are
growing freely. Stake and tie them as they may require.
Pelargoniums.--Continue to stake and tie the shoots that require it in
due time. Some clear liquid manure (cowdung water, for instance) may be
given to plants that are well established with roots and showing their
trusses of bloom; and sufficient space to be given for each plant to
develope its natural beauty. We would advise shading only when there is
a fear of scorching from the usual sudden sunbursts of April weather.
Ply the syringe every fine evening to refresh the plants, and to
keep down insects, until the flowers expand, when syringing should be
discontinued.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
The stove plants recently potted will now be making fresh growth. Allow
no diminution of bottom heat, and keep up a warm, moist atmosphere. Give
air when the thermometer indicates 90 deg.. Continue to shift Gesneras,
Clerodendrons, and other such free-growing plants, as they require it.
The Brassias, Cattleyas, some of the Dendrobiums, Gongoras, Peristerias,
Phaiuses, Sobralias, Zygopetalums, and other such Orchids, will now
be growing freely, and will therefore require a considerable amount of
atmospheric moisture. If the roof is covered with climbers, a little
management in trimming them will obviate the necessity of outside
shading, and will give an additional feature of interest to the house.
The plants on blocks, or suspended in baskets, will require very
frequent syringings to keep them in a healthy-growing state. Plants
in bloom may be removed to the conservatory, or any other house with a
drier atmosphere, to prolong their period of blooming.
FORCING-HOUSE.
Cherries.--When they begin to change they will require free exposure to
light, and abundance of air, to bring out their colour; and, at the same
time, a diminution in the supply of water. Carefully examine all curled
leaves, and destroy the grubs they contain. If the trees are very
luxuriant, and are making strong foreright shoots, stop them to within a
few buds of the main branch.
Figs.--Give the trees in pots some clear liquid manure when they are
swelling off. Stop the shoots at about six or eight inches, and thin out
any useless shoots. Syringe and water freely.
Melons.--Keep the vines thin, and stop regularly. Shade only in very hot
weather. Water sparingly overhead. Plant out succession crops.
Peaches and Nectarines.--When the fruit in the early house has gone
through the critical process of stoning, the final thinning should take
place; the borders--if inside, or out, or both--should be copiously
supplied with water; using liquid manure whenever a weak habit, from
poor soil or over-exhaustion, shows it to be necessary. Syringings to
be given twice a-day--early in the morning and at shutting-up time. The
night temperature to be no more than 50 deg.; but during the day it may
range to 85 deg., if accompanied with air in liberal quantities.
Pine Apples.--Lessen the moisture amongst the fruiting plants when
they approach maturity. Shift and grow on the young stock in a moist
atmosphere; admit air freely in fine weather; prepare beds, and turn out
the plants, if preferred.
Strawberries.--They should be kept near the glass: temperature, 65 deg.
to 70 deg. by day, and 55 deg. to 60 deg. by night; succession crops
rather cooler. Reduce the water to those ripening. Support the stems,
and thin the fruit where superior produce is wanted. Keep them clear of
runners and decayed leaves, and give an abundance of air.
Vines.--Continue to thin the Grapes in the early houses: a few berries
may require to be taken out of some of the bunches up to the time of
their changing colour. Keep up a high temperature--about 75 deg. by day
and 60 deg. by night: in later houses, where the bunches are in course
of formation, it is a great object to bring them out well. In later
houses, where the bunches are formed, or in bloom, let the heat be
moderately increased, and admit an abundance of air at all favourable
opportunities. Shift pot Vines often, and keep them near the light.
FOURTH WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The plants that are introduced to the conservatory from the stove,
forcing-pit, or any other such structures, merely for the blooming
season, will require particular care to be taken in the application of
water that they may not become sodden and diseased. Continue to stop,
prune, or pinch back all rambling and luxuriant shoots in due time. Stir
the surface of the bed in the conservatory, and apply fresh soil, to
maintain the plants in good health.
Azaleas, Chinese.--Supply them liberally with water at their roots
during their blooming season, and prevent damp and drip from injuring
the bloom.
Calceolarias.--The herbaceous sorts that have been pushed along in a
gentle heat will now be showing bloom, and will require to be grown in a
cool, airy place, to prevent the flower-stems from being too much drawn.
Keep down green fly. Shift on young stock, keeping the plants well down
in the pots as they throw out fresh rootlets from the stem. Cuttings
taken off now will root readily in a gentle bottom heat.
Camellias.--Apply shading the moment it is necessary, to protect the
young leaves.
Fuchsias.--Grow them steadily on in a moist, warm temperature. Use the
syringe freely. Stop any that have a tendency to be long-jointed, to
produce uniform and bushy plants.
Heaths.--Admit air liberally to them, and such other hard-wooded plants
that are now in bloom, or approaching that state.
Pelargoniums.--Shift on young plants. Any that are wanted for late
blooming should now be stopped.
Rhododendrons, Hybrid Indian.--Treat as advised for _Azaleas_.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Continue a kindly moistness amongst the Orchids, and slightly increase
the temperature. Shade with tiffany, or close-meshed netting, in bright
sunny weather; removing it early in the afternoon. Water liberally all
that are making free growth. Repot any that may require it as soon as
they have fairly commenced their growth. Continue to give liberal shifts
to the free-growing young stock of stove plants, slightly shading for
a few hours in hot weather, shutting up early in the afternoon, and
producing a kindly humid atmosphere by damping the walls, floors, pots,
&c.
Begonias.--Repot and propagate. This is one of the most useful tribe of
plants that can be grown, both for the stove and the adornment of the
conservatory.
Clerodendrons.--Encourage by a moist heat.
Climbers.--Keep them neatly tied up, and give them liberal supplies of
water, if in pots.
Gardenias.--They delight in a close atmosphere; a pit with dung linings
is most congenial to them.
Gesnera zebrina.--Pot bulbs for late flowering.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cherries.--Thin out the fruit where in large clusters; admit plenty of
air at favourable opportunities, and never allow the trees in tubs, or
pots, to become dry.
Figs.--The same as last week.
Peaches and Nectarines.--Keep the leading shoots regularly tied in, and
pinch out the points of some of the stronger ones.
Pine Apples.--It is advisable to keep all that are starting, or have
already started, into fruit, at one end of the house, or pit, that more
air may be admitted to them than to the others more advanced, to produce
a more robust growth, and to avoid the necessity of using stakes to
support the fruit. Air to be admitted freely to the succession plants at
every favourable opportunity.
Strawberries (in pots).--Where fruit are colouring, keep a rather dry
atmosphere, with a liberal supply of air, in order to secure flavour.
When the plants are in bloom, keep them near the glass, and the
atmosphere dry, with a good supply of fresh air; but avoid currents of
frosty air. Introduce succession plants under glass according to the
demand. Do not expose those from which fruit has been picked to the open
air till well hardened off. Give them the protection of a cold pit for a
time, as they are invaluable in open-air plantations.
Vines.--Where the fruit is on the change to colouring admit air on every
favourable opportunity, not forgetting to give it in the morning before
the sun shines on the house, to prevent the condensed vapour, which
would affect them injuriously, from settling on the bunches. Attend to
stopping the laterals, thinning the young shoots, tying in leaders, &c.,
in the later houses. Remove the top dressing from the outside border, to
allow the increasing power of the sun to act beneficially upon it.
MAY.
FIRST WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Attend in due time to all plants that require potting into larger pots;
and pinch off the tops of all that are of a rambling or loose habit of
growth, to make them compact and bushy.
Azaleas.--As soon as they are out of bloom, take them into heat to make
their growth, syringing them frequently and supplying them occasionally
with manure water, and shade for a short time in the middle of the day
when the sun is powerful.
Calceolarias.--Give them weak liquid manure occasionally, and shade
those in bloom.
Cinerarias.--When done flowering, cut the stems down, to favour the
development of suckers, and remove them to a cold pit or frame.
Climbers.--Keep all neatly trained.
Heaths and New Holland Plants.--The late-flowering sorts, or such as
have already flowered, and the young stock intended for another season,
may be removed to cold pits or frames. Such plants as require it must be
shifted, stopped, and shaded; particular attention being paid that they
do not get dry at the root.
Pelargoniums.--Shade such as are in flower; and shift and stop such as
are wanted to flower late.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Keep up a kind humidity and a gradual increase of temperature in
correspondence with the increase of solar light, and shut up early in
the afternoon with sun heat. Continue to propagate the choice stove
plants, and keep all free from insects.
Achimenes.--Pot off.
Begonias.--Continue to repot as they go out of bloom, pruning in any
straggling shoots, and propagate as advised last week. Keep them close,
and syringe frequently, when they will soon commence growing. Keep
them some distance apart, to allow their fine foliage to expand. The
following are good sorts:--Prestoniensis, Cinnabarina, Fuchsioides,
Martiana, Zebrina, Barkeri, Rubra, and Argyrostigma.
Gloxinias.--Repot where necessary.
Succulents.--Opuntias, Melocacti, and Epiphyllum, to be excited into
vigorous growth by intense light and abundance of heat and moisture.
FORCING-HOUSE.
Cherries.--Temperature 65 deg. to 70 deg. by day and 50 deg. at night,
and give plenty of air; but guard against wet and cold.
Figs.--Stop and thin the shoots. Keep a damp atmosphere, and use the
syringe over the foliage, when the house, or pit, is shut up in the
afternoon, to keep down red spider. When the fruit is ripening, the
syringe must be dispensed with, and the atmosphere kept drier; but, as
there is generally a succession of fruit on the trees, water must not
be wholly withheld at the time of the first crop ripening, as it would
endanger the succeeding one; but it may be given more sparingly.
Melons.--Stop and keep the shoots very thin. When the crop is safely
set, give the soil a good soaking of clear, tepid manure water. Let
swelling fruit be exposed as much as possible to the light.
Peaches.--Continue to stop all gross shoots, which will both increase
the size of the fruit and the smaller shoots at the bottom of the tree.
The syringe, when used frequently, is useful for the same purpose, and
to keep down insects. Air and light to be admitted, to give flavour and
colouring to the ripening fruit.
Pines.--The fruiting plants now swelling, and in pots, may be treated
with a little clear liquid manure. Guano water, or soot water, or both
combined, will produce a perceptible improvement in foliage and growth,
with the caution that it be given in a warm, clear state, and not too
strong. Ply the syringe freely on warm afternoons, and close up with
a temperature of 85 deg. or 90 deg.; giving air again towards evening.
When indications of ripening by changing colour appear, desist from the
use of the syringe, and give them no further supplies at the root.
Strawberries.--When ripening their fruit they may be placed in a frame
where a free admission of air can be given.
Vines.--Encourage the young stock intended for growing in pots next
year, to make healthy, luxuriant growth, by giving them plenty of pot
room and manure water, to set them in a light situation in some of
the forcing-houses, and to pay early attention to the leaders as they
advance in growth. Where Muscats are growing with Hamburghs and
other such free-setting varieties, it is advisable to keep up a brisk
day-temperature for the Muscats during their season of blooming,
and until their berries are fairly set, with a reduction to a
night-temperature of 65 deg. or 68 deg., to suit the other varieties.
SECOND WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
A free ventilation is of importance, and by closing with a humid
atmosphere early in the evening a vigorous growth will be promoted.
Liberal shifts to be given to such plants as may now require them,
before their roots become matted. Remove all plants intended for bedding
out, and let them remain for a short time under the protection of a cold
frame, or in beds hooped over, and covered at night with mats, or other
such protecting materials. This gradually-hardening-off will better
enable them to withstand unfavourable weather, if it should occur after
they are planted out.
Azaleas.--All irregularities of growth should be corrected by pruning.
We have lately seen the beneficial effects of close pruning on such
plants; they had been cut in severely last season by removing strong,
straggling branches of old wood, to give some a spherical and others
a pyramidal form. When pruned, the ball was reduced, the plant fresh
potted in a smaller-sized pot, and the peat soil rammed as hard as
it was possible to make it; then watered, and introduced to heat. The
plants treated in that manner are now covered with bloom, and in a high
state of vigour.
Heaths.--Keep the tops pinched off, to form bushy plants.
New Holland Plants.--Some of them of weak growth, and which naturally
make long, straggling shoots, are much improved by bending down the
branches, and fixing them to a wire hoop, or string attached to the
rim of the pot. By such means the nakedness of the plant at its base is
hidden, and the check imposed on the ascent of the sap will induce an
increased supply of shoots. Pick off the seed-pods as the plants go out
of bloom. Cut back and arrange the shoots in the best manner, to produce
compact growth.
Pelargoniums.--All that are showing bloom, unless of very gross habit,
will receive benefit from a supply of a little weak manure water. For
that purpose put cow, horse, or sheepdung into a tub, and to one peck
add five gallons of rain or other soft water. When taking it for use
draw it off clear, and give the plants a watering twice a week. Give air
freely, shut up early, and syringe the plants overhead till the flowers
expand, when syringing should be discontinued. As the petals are apt to
drop very soon in hot weather, it is recommended to touch the centre
of the flower with a camel-hair pencil, or small feather, dipped in gum
water, which will stick the petals together and prolong the blooming.
Such is the general practice at our metropolitan exhibitions.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
As the stove plants grow, allow them more space, especially such plants
as are prized for the beauty of their foliage. Give frequent attention
to stopping and training. Look to the climbers frequently, to regulate
their growth and to prevent entanglement, and a world of trouble and
confusion. Put in cuttings of such plants as Brugmansias, Clerodendrons,
Eranthemums, Erythrinas, Poinsettias, and those winter-flowering plants
_Euphorbia jaquiniflora_ and the _Gesnera bulbosa_. Where there is only
one house in which to grow Orchids, a compromise as to temperature must
be made to suit the natives of the hot and moist valleys or shady
woods of the East, and those which inhabit high and airy regions in the
Western hemisphere. To accomplish this it is advisable to allow a free
circulation of air during the early part of the day, with an abundance
of atmospheric moisture, and to shut up early in the afternoon with a
high degree of temperature.
Achimenes.--They delight in a moist heat, and a partially-shaded
situation. More air to be given as they advance in growth. The shoots to
be staked out neatly.
Gesneras to be treated similarly, with the addition of more light.
Gloxinias.--The same as _Achimenes_.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cherries.--Give more air, and keep a drier atmosphere when the fruit is
ripening. Give plenty of water to the trees swelling their fruit. Keep
them free from insects, or the fruit will be of little value.
Figs.--Air freely, to give flavour to the fruit now ripening. Avoid
wetting the fruit when it begins to soften.
Melons.--Keep up the heat of the beds by renewing or turning the
linings. Slightly shade the plants when the sun is powerful, to keep the
foliage in a healthy state, without which good fruit cannot be produced.
When the frames are at liberty, Melons may be grown in them with a
little assistance from dung heat at bottom.
Peaches.--Give a liberal supply of air, with less water, to trees, the
fruit of which are ripening.
Pines.--Continue the previous instructions in the management of the
plants in the different stages of growth.
Vines.--Thin and stop the shoots, and thin the berries in good time.
Attend to the late crops, and set, by hand, the blossoms of _Muscats_,
_West's St. Peter's_, and other shy setters. Be sure that inside borders
are properly supplied with water, giving sufficient quantities to
thoroughly moisten the whole mass of soil.
THIRD WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Attend carefully to the stock of plants for summer and autumn
decoration, and do not allow them to suffer for want of pot room and
water.
Azaleas.--Continue to encourage all that have flowered by timely
potting, syringings, and applications of weak liquid manure.
Camellias.--Introduce a gradual declension of artificial heat amongst
all that have completed their growth. A curtailment in the supply of
water, giving merely sufficient to keep them from flagging, will induce
the production of blossom-buds.
Epacris.--Repot with a pretty large shift the early-flowering sorts
that have freely commenced their growth. Use good fibrous heath soil,
rejecting any of a spongy or greasy nature. Such plants, for some time
after being newly shifted, require particular attention in watering,
that the soil may not become soddened. Let the plants be placed in a
cold pit, and be slightly shaded during bright sunshine. The stopping or
pinching out the points of strong shoots must be regularly attended to
during their growing season, to establish a uniformity of sturdy growth.
Heaths and New Holland Plants.--All that have flowered, and have made
their season's growth, may be removed to cold pits, or frames, to allow
those that remain, and are promising to flower, more air, sun and light.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Keep up a liberal supply of humidity, with ventilation, at favourable
opportunities. The plants here should now be growing very freely, and
should, therefore, receive frequent attention as to stopping, training,
&c. Keep them properly accommodated with pot room, and allow them
all the sunshine they will bear without scorching; also, allow them
sufficient space for the development of their foliage. Plenty of
moisture is now requisite to encourage a free growth in Orchids, to get
their pseudo-bulbs firm, well nourished, and ripened in good time.
Free ventilation in favourable weather and a slight shading in bright
sunshine are also requisites for their healthy growth.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cherries.--When the fruit is ripening, air to be given freely, even to
the drawing the lights off completely in favourable weather. Fires may
be discontinued altogether, unless the nights are very cold.
Figs.--Give them plenty of water in all their stages of growth;
discontinue the use of the syringe during the ripening process. They
frequently require attention in stopping all long young shoots.
Melons.--If there is a sufficient depth of soil for the plants, they
will not require any large supplies of water after the fruit is swelling
off; but it will be necessary to sprinkle the plants overhead, and to
shut up early every fine afternoon with a good heat. Lay the fruit on a
tile or piece of slate.
Peaches.--When the fruit is swelling off, or beginning to ripen, admit
air freely in favourable weather, even to the drawing off the lights
entirely, so as to admit a free circulation and the direct influence of
the sun, by which flavour and colour are best attained. Continue to stop
all very-luxuriant shoots, and thin out the young wood. Some persons
lay in plenty of young wood to select from in winter pruning; but
fruit-bearing wood, regularly disposed all over the tree, is best
attained by the judicious and successive thinning of useless shoots
during their growing season. Continue to tie in the shoots of the late
houses.
Pineries.--When the repotting of the plants has recently taken place it
will be necessary to shade for several hours, during bright sunshine,
for a few days; but for the general stock shading should be dispensed
with as much as possible--as short, stiff leaves and sturdy growth are
best attained by judicious airings and humidity. Do not water much at
the root immediately after repotting. Maintain a brisk bottom heat to
the succession plants. Admit plenty of air during favourable weather.
Vineries.--As the fruit in the early houses become coloured, it is
advisable to remove all superfluous or rambling shoots; but to retain
and to preserve with the greatest care the principal leaves--as the
good quality of the fruit and the healthy condition of the tree for
the ensuing season will depend upon the number and healthy state of the
principal leaves.
FOURTH WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
As most plants here are now in active growth, they will require a
liberal supply of water. If the sun shines very brightly, a slight
shading would be of benefit for a few hours on very hot days.
Azaleas, Chinese.--When done blooming, they succeed best in a close pit,
kept moderately moist and slightly shaded in the middle of the day. If
they are too large for a pit, they will do well in a vinery, or in any
other large house where they can stand at a distance from the glass
without shading.
Balsams and Cockscombs.--Promote their growth by shifting them into
larger pots, in rich soil, with an abundance of light near the glass,
and heat.
Camellias to be treated as advised for _Azaleas_.
Geraniums.--If any remain after the flower-garden masses are furnished,
they should be potted and treated with every attention as to watering,
&c. When they have made fresh roots, and begin to grow freely, to be
stopped, to make bushy plants. _Calceolarias_, _Fuchsias_, _Petunias_,
_Verbenas_, &c., treated in a similar manner, will be useful as a
reserve to succeed the greenhouse plants that are now in bloom, and to
fill up vacancies as they occur in the beds and borders.
Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Many being now in full growth will
require an abundance of water, more especially in bright weather. Many
fine specimens are frequently lost through imperfect watering; for
if the ball is once allowed to get thoroughly dry, all endeavours to
restore the plant to health and vigour are generally unsuccessful.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Ornamental stove plants--such as Brugmansias, Centradenias,
Clerodendrons, Eranthemums, Euphorbias, Geissomerias, Gesneras,
Justicias, Poinsettias, &c., to be supplied with clear liquid manure,
and to have their rambling shoots stopped. Many of the free-growing
plants will require shifting occasionally. The great object should be
to get rapid growth when light abounds, and thus to secure luxuriant
foliage at the right season, when there will be more time for the wood
to be properly matured for winter. The syringings to be given early in
the afternoon, that the plants may get dry before night.
Achimenes.--When grown in large seed-pans they produce a fine effect.
FORCING-HOUSE.
Cherries.--Give more air, and keep a drier atmosphere when the fruit is
ripening. Give plenty of water to the trees now swelling their fruit.
Syringe frequently, and keep the foliage and fruit free from insects.
Chrysanthemums.--Pot off as soon as rooted. If not already struck, the
cuttings should be put in at once.
Cucumbers.--Stop them, and water freely. All that are intended for
ridges, if hardened off, should now be planted out. See that the ball of
earth is well soaked with water before planting.
Figs.--Give them plenty of air during the day in fine weather, with
abundance of water. Use the syringe freely, except when fruit is
ripening.
Peaches.--Although a dry atmosphere is necessary to give flavour to the
ripening fruit, it is not advisable to withhold water altogether from
the roots while the trees are making their growth. Water the inside
borders in the morning in clear weather, so that any vapour that arises
may pass off during the day. The outside borders, if dry, should also
be watered as far as the roots extend, and then mulched, to prevent
evaporation during hot, dry weather. If the early-forced trees have
naked branches, some of the earliest-made wood may be taken from the
trees, and buds inserted from it in the barren parts. Buds inserted
now may start into growth in July, and be stopped when about six inches
long, to get the wood well ripened.
Pines.--A bottom heat from 80 deg. to 85 deg. must be kept up to the
plants intended for fruiting in the autumn. It is advisable, where
practicable, to allow the stools from which fruit has been cut to remain
in the house for some time; to supply them liberally with water, and
occasionally with liquid manure; to encourage the growth of the suckers.
Vines.--In the houses where Grapes are ripening, the temperature may be
allowed to rise to 90 deg., with sun heat, and to decline to 60 deg. at
night. In the succession-houses thin the bunches, and do not be covetous
to over-crop the Vines, as it is the cause of many bad effects. Stop
laterals, and use the syringe freely in the afternoons.
JUNE.
FIRST WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Azalea Indica.--Encourage free growth, as soon as possible after they
have done blooming, by placing them in heat, supplying an abundance of
water, and syringing freely.
Calceolarias.--Water carefully; cut down when out of bloom, and remove
them to a cold frame.
Heaths and New Holland Plants.--The young stock will now succeed best in
a pit, or frame, placing the lights to the north. The glass to be well
washed, and the pots to be placed on tiles, or ashes, above the ground
level.
Pelargoniums.--Give air freely, avoid cold draughts, and shade from
scorching sun. Shift and stop the succession stock for late flowering.
Petunias.--Do not neglect to pot off from the store propagating
pots some of those, as advised last week, as also Scarlet Geraniums,
Verbenas, Heliotropes, &c., to afford a variety of sorts and colours for
the conservatory.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Let rambling shoots of ordinary stove plants have frequent stopping.
The Aerides, Dendrobiums, Phalaenopses, Saccolabiums, Sarcanthuses,
Sobralias, Vandas, and others of the eastern genera of Orchids, will now
require most liberal and frequent waterings and syringings. Gongoras,
Peristerias, Stanhopeas, &c., when full of roots in baskets, require
a thorough soaking. Now is a good time to pot Cymbidiums, Peristerias,
&c., starting into growth. Aerides, Vandas, and plants of a similar
habit, do best when shifted after they have done blooming.
Achimenes.--Continue to shift them, as also _Begonias_, _Clerodendrons_,
_Gesneras_, &c., as requisite. Remove those in bloom to the greenhouse
or conservatory.
Climbers.--Keep them thin and tied in, so as not to shade the rest of
the plants to an injurious extent.
Succulents.--Shift _Melocacti_, &c., and keep them growing, and near the
glass.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cherries.--The trees in large pots or tubs, from which the crop has been
lately gathered, should have abundance of air, and an occasional supply
of liquid manure. Give them, also, a good washing overhead with the
syringe, or engine, dashing it on with considerable force. They will
also require to have their wood matured early.
Figs.--Continue the practice of stopping when the shoots are four or
five eyes long. Give a liberal supply of water, and thin out the second
crop where too thick.
Melons.--Keep the shoots thin, and remove all useless laterals. When the
fruit is swelling, the soil should be kept in a properly moist state,
and the foliage in a healthy condition. The bottom heat should not be
allowed to sink below 75 deg..
Peaches.--Keep up a growing temperature with plenty of air and moisture,
and frequently syringe the trees, to keep them clean and healthy. The
ripening fruit will require plenty of air.
Pines.--Repot as they may require; for if they are allowed to remain in
a pot-bound state at this season they are very apt to start prematurely
into fruit. It is also particularly requisite that the balls are
thoroughly moist at the time of repotting. To give strength to the
growing stock, it is advisable to admit abundance of air in the morning
part of the day; and in the afternoon, to encourage a high degree of
heat with an abundance of atmospheric moisture. The plants growing in
open beds to be supplied with a steady bottom heat of from 80 deg. to 85
deg., and sufficient water to the roots.
Vines.--Proceed diligently with thinning the berries, as they swell
rapidly at this season. The late houses in which the Vines are in bloom
to be kept warmer and closer than they have been, until the fruit is
set. Stop the shoots and laterals, and never allow a mass of useless
wood to remain on them.
SECOND WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The principal part of the greenhouse plants may now be removed to an
out-of-door situation, open to the morning sun, and protected from high
winds, and be placed on some hard bottom through which the worms cannot
get into the pots. The specimen plants that remain should be turned
round from time to time, that they may not get one-sided; and allow them
to have plenty of room on all sides. Also, the young plants intended for
specimens should have their flower-buds picked off, to encourage their
growth.
Balsams.--Encourage them by frequent shifts, and keep them in bottom
heat, and near the glass. The prematurely-formed flower-buds to be
picked off, as the plants should attain a considerable size before they
are allowed to bloom.
Calceolarias.--The most critical time is after the plants have flowered;
if allowed to produce seed, they generally die off--Nature having
completed her task. When the bloom begins to fall, cut the plants down,
and repot into a larger size; place them in a cold frame _facing the
east_, the lights on during the day, with air, and entirely off during
the night, unless in rainy weather, as the night dews are highly
beneficial. Treated thus the plants will soon produce new shoots, which
must be taken off and pricked out into small pots in a very open soil,
and placed in a very gentle bottom heat to strike. When rooted, to be
shifted into pots of a larger size.
Cinerarias.--The plants that have bloomed through the season to be cut
down, turned out of their pots, and to have at least half the old soil
removed from their roots. Prepare a piece of ground, in a sheltered
situation, with leaf mould or rotten dung and sand, in which the
Cinerarias are to be planted, one inch below the level of the soil, in
rows fifteen inches apart and one foot apart in the row. When planted,
to be well watered.
Climbers.--The Passifloras, _Mandevilla suaveolens_, _Tecoma
jasminoides_, and other such climbers in the conservatory, will now be
growing very freely, and will therefore require frequent attention to
keep them in order. The young shoots may be allowed to grow in a natural
manner, merely preventing them from getting too much entangled, or
growing into masses.
Fuchsias.--When in a healthy-growing state they require an abundance of
water and frequent syringings. Train them in the desired form, and pinch
back all weak and straggling shoots.
Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Examine them very carefully, and be sure
that they are in a proper state as to moisture. The young plants which
are not blooming will do best if placed in a pit where they can be
exposed or not, as may appear necessary. To lay a proper foundation for
a good specimen it is necessary to stop and to train the shoots into
form.
Kalosanthes.--Train them neatly, increase the supply of water, and give
them liquid manure occasionally.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Continue to shift the young and growing stock of stove plants. To harden
the wood of the early-grown plants, or autumn or winter flowering, it
is advisable to remove them to some cooler place, such as the shelves
of the greenhouse. The baskets, in which the Stanhopeas will now be
blooming, should be carefully examined to see that the buds, as they
protrude, may not be injured by contact with the side. Many stove plants
and Orchids in flower, if taken to a late vinery, or such intermediate
house, will thus be prepared, in a short time, for removal to the
conservatory during the summer.
Climbers.--When the shrubby plants are large, the climbers hanging
loosely give a sort of tropical character to the house; but, either
hanging, or trained in wreaths or festoons, they require pruning and
regulating, to prevent them becoming entangled, and, therefore, a
confused mass of wood and foliage.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cherries.--Give air night and day in fine weather.
Figs.--When the ripest of the fruit is gathered, give the trees a good
syringing overhead, to cleanse and refresh the leaves, and to keep down
insects.
Melons.--To be slightly shaded with a net, or a few pea-sticks, during
bright sunshine in the middle of the day, to prevent the scorching of
the leaves; for if such occurs, the fruit ripens prematurely, and is, in
consequence, without flavour.
Peaches.--When the fruit is ripening, give as much air as possible
during the day, and when the nights are mild and warm leave the lights
open. When the fruit in the succession-house is stoned, give a good
watering to the roots, and syringe the trees frequently, as previously
advised.
Pines.--Apply an abundance of moisture to the pathways of the
fruiting-house during bright weather. Give plenty of air, but allow at
the same time the thermometer to range from 90 deg. to 95 deg.. Shut up
when the rays of the sun are getting partially off the house, and ply
the syringe freely about the leaves and stems of the plants, and
the surface of the plunging material. Air to be given an hour or two
afterwards for the night.
Vines.--Keep thinning the berries and stopping the laterals as they
advance, which, with syringing and giving air, is the principal work to
be done.
THIRD WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The stock of plants out of doors to be carefully looked over in showery
weather that they may not suffer from imperfect drainage. The more
delicate sorts to be returned to the houses, or protected by some means
during heavy rains.
Camellias.--When they are kept in-doors give an abundance of air night
and day, with an occasional application of the syringe, keeping the
paths and floors damp. When they have ceased growing, and have formed
their flower-buds, discontinue to syringe the plants overhead, as it
sometimes starts them into a fresh growth that will be the destruction
of the flower-buds.
Chrysanthemums.--Plant them out eighteen or twenty inches apart in an
open piece of ground. Some to be left to grow as standards on one stem,
and others to be topped, to make them bushy.
Cinerarias.--In raising seedlings it is advisable to select each parent
plant, distinguished for its dwarf habit and decided colour, and to
place them by themselves in a pit or frame. The seed should be carefully
gathered as it ripens. It should be sown in shallow pots, or pans, well
drained with crocks; then some siftings, and over that some light soil,
with some finer and more sandy on the surface, covering the seeds very
lightly with the same; and slightly sprinkling, or watering, through a
very fine rose, and the surface covered with a little moss, to prevent
evaporation. In a few days the seedlings will be up; then remove the
moss, and let them remain in the pots, or pans, until they are large
enough to be handled with safety; then pot them in small pots, and keep
close for a day or two.
Lilium lancifolium.--Give attention to them; as also to tree Carnations,
_Salvia splendens_, Scarlet Geraniums, &c., for autumn and early winter
flowering.
Oranges.--The same as advised for _Camellias_.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Achimenes.--Repot, as also _Begonias_ and _Gesneras_, for succession of
late bloom.
Luculia gratissima.--Propagate by cuttings.
Some of the Orchids will now require to be topped up a little with fresh
soil. The _Barkeria spectabilis_, _Epidendrum Skinneri_, the Lycastes,
_Odontoglossum grande_, &c., will now enjoy the temperature of the
conservatory.
FORCING-HOUSE.
Figs.--Continue to stop all shoots when five or six joints long. Never
allow the trees in tubs, or pots, to want water; they now require daily
attention.
Melons.--Shade them during bright sunshine for a few hours in the middle
of the day. If the red spider appears, rub sulphur vivum, mixed with
water, on slates or tiles, and place them in the pit, or frame, where
the sun's rays may fall upon them.
Peaches.--Admit plenty of air when the fruit is ripe, or nearly so. When
the crop is gathered, give them a good washing with the syringe. Those
changing for ripening, if the trees are young and vigorous, to have a
general stopping of the strong shoots all over the higher parts of the
tree. To keep down red spider, it is advisable to wash the walls, pipes,
or flues, with sulphur vivum reduced to the consistency of paint; or to
paint some slates, tiles, or common saucers, with the mixture, and to
place them in different parts of the house, where the sun can shine upon
them.
Pines.--If the pot plants in fruit are in a healthy condition, well
furnished with roots, an occasional supply of clear manure water, in a
warm state, may be given with advantage to them.
Strawberries.--As it is necessary, by early attention, to ensure a
healthy, vigorous growth, therefore, as soon as the runners have emitted
the least portion of root, take them off, and prick them out on a rich
piece of ground, or on an old hotbed where Radishes or early Potatoes
have been grown under hoops, where, when the weather is hot, they are
more convenient to shade, and require less water.
Vines.--When the fruit is cut in the early houses, ripen the wood
by exposing it night and day, except during heavy rains. Water to be
gradually withheld as the growth of the plants declines, and somewhat in
the proportion in which you would have vegetation stop, not all at
once, but gradually. The Vines with fruit now stoning may be allowed to
produce a few redundant shoots if there is sufficient room to lay them
in without crowding, or overlapping the old wood, or shading the old
leaves. The late Grapes to be finally thinned, their shoulders to be
tied out, and every useless shoot to be removed. Keep the Vines in pots
trained, and exposed to light, and apply weak liquid manure frequently.
FOURTH WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Many of the finer kinds of hard-wooded plants--such as Boronias,
Epacrises, &c.--will now be out of bloom, and will require cutting in
rather closely, to form neat bushy plants. Some of the greenhouse plants
will most probably require shifting, and should receive that attention
now, or, at latest, by the middle of next month. Keep a sharp look out
for insects of all kinds, and also for mildew; and give the plants, if
the weather is dry, a sprinkling once or twice a-week from the syringe
or garden engine.
New Holland Plants.--If any are retained in the house, let them be
placed where they can have a sufficiency of light and fresh air, and at
the same time in a place where the sun has no power on the pots; but if
such cannot be avoided, place the pot containing the plant in another
two sizes larger, and fill the intervening space with moss.
Pelargoniums.--When out of bloom, they should be placed in the open
ground for a fortnight or three weeks to ripen the wood before they are
cut down.
Scarlet Geraniums.--To prepare them for winter blooming it is advisable
to place the pots during the summer on a hard bottom out of doors and
in the full sun, and to pinch out the flower-stems as they appear. To be
carefully attended with water.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Keep up a kindly humidity by frequent syringings, and keeping the
floors, paths, &c., damp. Many of the stove plants--viz., Clerodendrons,
Erythrinas, Gardenias, Ixoras, Jasmines, Liliums, Pergularias,
Stephanotises, &c.--may be removed to the conservatory, where the
flowers will attain a deeper colour and retain it for a longer period
than if they had remained in the stove.
Euphorbias.--Propagate _jacquiniaeflora_ and _fulgens_, and grow them
on a successional system of culture for furnishing the conservatory and
stove throughout the autumn, winter, and spring.
Gesnera zebrina.--Keep up a succession in various stages of growth, and
place another batch of tubers in a pan.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Give particular attention to the preservation of the foliage in houses
where the fruit has been gathered, keeping the atmosphere cool and
moist; and give the trees an occasional washing with the engine, to keep
down red spider and the leaves clean and healthy.
Cherries.--When the trees are planted in the house, and the fruit has
been gathered, give all the air possible by throwing it entirely open.
Give them a good washing occasionally with the garden engine. When the
plants are in pots, it is advisable to place them on a hard bottom on
the north side of a wall or fence.
Melons.--Bottom heat is necessary for their healthy growth; without it
a check would be given that would be sure to produce a most injurious
effect on the swelling fruit. Water to be given to the plants overhead
occasionally.
Peaches.--Continue to maintain a moist, healthy atmosphere while the
fruit is swelling. Give air sufficiently early in the morning, to
prevent the sun scorching the foliage. Syringe and shut up early in the
afternoon.
Pines.--Continue to provide proper bottom and surface heat, and give
attention to airing, watering, syringing, and shifting in due time. By
such means a large amount of healthy growth may now be secured for the
fruit-swelling and succession plants. The plants swelling their fruit to
be also favoured with a high temperature, a moist atmosphere, and plenty
of water, and occasionally manure water at the root. If worm-casts
appear in any of the pots, water with lime-water in a clear state.
Vines.--As the dry atmosphere necessary for the preservation of the ripe
bunches is conducive to the increase of red spider, the sulphur must
be immediately applied as advised last week. Discontinue the use of the
syringe as soon as the succession crops begin to ripen. Check the growth
of laterals by timely pinching. Give the final thinnings to the latest
Grapes; and as they are frequently required for winter use, a good
thinning should be given, as crowded bunches and berries will not keep
late in the season.
JULY.
FIRST WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The plants permanently planted out in the borders of the conservatory
should have a thorough soaking of weak liquid manure. Give all the air
possible at this season, both night and day, and keep the house as neat
and clean as possible. If it contains many tender stove plants, shut it
up for an hour while the sun is on it in the evening, so as to produce a
more genial atmosphere for them.
Achimenes.--Encourage them, as also _Clerodendrons_, &c., to grow and to
prolong their beauty in the conservatory by supplying them with liquid
manure, taking particular care not to give it too strong, especially at
first.
Cinerarias.--Sow seed immediately. Plants for early blooming should also
be potted and started at once, choosing the strongest suckers for the
purpose, and placing them in a cool, shady frame until they have made
fresh growth.
Chrysanthemums.--Propagate some for blooming in small pots.
Heaths.--Pluck off the flowers and seed-pods as soon as they become
unsightly, and prune straggling growth. The softwooded kinds--such as
the _ventricosa_, &c.--do best in a sheltered situation in the open
air, with means to protect them during heavy rains; while the
woolly-leaved--such as _Masonii_, &c.--and hardwooded varieties delight
in cold pits where the glass can be shaded or used for protection as
necessary. Examine the plants which were not shifted in the spring, and,
if necessary, pot them without delay; but if they require to be cut in,
to make them bushy, it will be best to let them break afresh before they
are repotted.
Leschenaultias.--If they have done blooming, and are pot-bound, to be
repotted and placed in a shady place to make their growth.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Give abundance of air to the stove plants at all favourable times, and
abundance of moisture by all means. Examine young specimens that were
potted early in the season, and shift at once such as require more pot
room.
Ixoras.--Encourage the young plants by giving them plenty of air both
night and day, to make short, sturdy growth; and discontinue stopping
them for the season.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cherries.--When the fruit has been gathered from the trees grown in
tubs, or pots, it is advisable to place them in some open, airy quarter,
to make their wood for next season's bearing.
Figs.--Give liberal supplies of water to the trees now throwing up their
second crop. A top dressing of old cowdung would now be useful. Pinch
out the top buds, if the shoots are growing very long. It should be a
practice to manage the trees during the summer that nothing more than a
slight thinning out should be wanted at the winter pruning.
Melons.--Give attention to the crops now growing, in thinning out the
shoots, stopping, &c.
Peaches and Nectarines.--When all the fruit is gathered, and the wood
seems well ripened, it will be best to take the lights quite off, and
place them under cover until wanted again. Plenty of air to be given to
the trees that are swelling off their fruit. Also, stop in succession
many of the strong shoots about the period the last swelling commences.
Use the syringe freely over the leaves early in the morning and again in
the evening.
Pines.--Give abundance of air to the fruiting and succession plants, and
during dry, hot weather, saturate the paths and every open space with
moisture, to prevent the leaves of the plants becoming brown. If such a
practice be regularly adopted during hot, bright sunny weather, shading
will seldom or never be necessary. Be at the same time particular in
maintaining a mild, genial bottom heat.
Vines.--The houses containing ripe fruit will require to be kept dry and
well ventilated; those swelling will still require attention to keep a
regular steady temperature with regular supplies of air. _Muscats_ very
frequently require fires during the night and on wet, cold days.
SECOND WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Achimenes.--They delight in a steady, moist heat; to be shaded in the
middle of hot days, to prevent the sun from scorching the foliage; and
never to be watered overhead.
Cacti.--Remove them to a dry, airy place as soon as they have finished
their growth.
Cockscombs.--They can be grown with strong, short stems, and very large
heads, if they are allowed to remain in small pots until the flowers are
formed, then potted in large pots in a compost of one-half rich loam,
one-fourth leaf mould, and one-fourth sand, and supplied with as much
liquid manure and moist heat as possible.
Fuchsias.--As the plants progress in growth give them plenty of air
and moisture, occasionally moistening the paths, walls, and stages with
clear manure water, and syringe the plants both morning and evening
overhead.
Globe Amaranthus.--To be potted into 48-sized pots, in which they will
flower in a soil composed of peat, loam, and leaf mould, or rotten dung.
They should be allowed to stand near the glass, and be subjected to a
moist heat of not less than 75 deg..
Heaths.--If mildew appears, dust them with flowers of sulphur. When
watering, give them a good soaking, so that every part of the ball
is thoroughly wet, and then withhold further supply until it is again
completely dry.
Japan Lilies.--As they are succulent in growth, keep them well and
liberally supplied with water. The flower-stems to be properly sticked,
so as to keep them in due bounds, and also to assist in presenting a
large mass of flowers to the eye at once.
Pelargoniums.--If the plants have been exposed to the open air, as
advised in a previous calendar, they will now be fit to cut down. After
the plants are cut down, place them in a shady place until the most
forward young shoots are one inch long; then shake them out, and repot
into small pots, using sandy loam and peat only, and placing them in
a close, cold frame until they begin to grow again; after which freely
expose them to the weather until heavy rains in autumn, or the approach
of frost, renders it necessary to house them for the winter.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Cleanliness is indispensable amongst the Orchids, use a sponge to remove
filth from the leaves. See that no plants are neglected in standing in
corners or behind large plants; arrange and re-arrange frequently, as
it tends both to promote the healthy growth of the plants and a pleasing
variety in the house.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cucumbers.--Although bright hot weather may prevail, it is advisable to
keep up a brisk, regular bottom as well as top heat. Strike cuttings of
choice sorts for winter bearing.
Melons.--The same as advised for _Cucumbers_, as they both delight in
plenty of heat to keep them healthy and in regular bearing. Give them
good soakings of weak manure water occasionally, and shut up early
on all fine days, sprinkling the sides of the pits or frames, and the
plants at times overhead. When watering the plants never allow any to
fall on the main stem. If gum, or canker, appears, apply lime to the
parts affected. Old plants cut back should be stimulated to grow freely.
Peaches.--Any tendency to premature decay in the leaves of those
from which the fruit has been all gathered to be arrested by liberal
waterings at the roots and by syringings.
Pines.--Keep up the temperature from 90 deg. to 95 deg. by day and from
70 deg. to 75 deg. by night, with plenty of moisture among the growing
plants and swelling fruit. Shift the successions as the roots fill the
pots.
Vines.--Uncover the house, or give all the air possible night and day as
soon as the Grapes are gathered, unless the wood is not fully ripened,
in that case the house should be closed in the afternoon at a good heat.
Stop the laterals on the later Vines, thin and tie up the bunches, and
maintain a steady, moist temperature, with plenty of air, but do not
syringe the bunches.
THIRD WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
If any of the stove plants, as lately recommended, have been brought
into the conservatory, they will require a free admission of air at
every favourable opportunity to keep the atmosphere of the house dry.
The plants must be kept clear of decaying leaves and flowers. Some
judgment is also required in watering recently repotted plants, that
they may not be injured by saturation in cloudy weather, nor by drought
in hot sunny days.
The growth of twiners should be carefully regulated, allowing them
sufficient freedom to develope their natural habits as far as other
considerations will permit.
Continue to shift the hardwooded plants as they require it. A turfy
compost of three-parts sandy heath soil of a fibrous and rather lumpy
character, and one-part loam, will suit the majority. Particular
attention should be paid to the drainage, more especially to the crock
at the bottom; for if that is flat, and not hollow, it matters but
little how much depth of drainage material rests upon it, the soil will
soon become saturated and sour. Remember that the final shift should be
given in good time to those intended to flower in the autumn.
Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Sow seeds; the compost to be equal parts of
peat or leaf mould, loam, and rotten dung, with a small portion of sand.
Place a layer of broken crocks two inches thick at the bottom of the
pot; then fill up within half an inch of the rim with the compost,
passed through a fine seive. After the pot has been gently struck on the
potting-bench to settle the soil, the surface must then be made level
with a flat piece of wood, or the bottom of a small garden pan or
saucer. Sprinkle the seeds regularly over the surface, do not cover with
soil, and water with a fine rose; then to be placed in a cold frame, and
be kept shaded from the sun.
Chorozema.--The beauty of this genus for early spring display is
generally appreciated, and, therefore, requires no commendation from
me. They delight, like most other New Holland plants, in sandy peat
containing plenty of fibre, and require plenty of air at all times, and
also to be kept constantly moist, but never very wet. A large pot and
frequent stopping will soon produce a fine specimen.
Chrysanthemums.--Continue to top the plants that have been planted out
in the open ground.
Epacris.--The varieties of this genus are most useful for the adornment
of the conservatory in early spring. They delight in fibrous peat,
broken rough, mixed with fine white sand. The young plants to be
frequently stopped by pinching off the points of the shoots while
growing, to induce them to throw out laterals; those again to be stopped
until the plants have attained a size sufficient to warrant their
blooming.
Gardenias.--If any have been removed to the conservatory while in
bloom they should be returned to heat as soon as the bloom is over,
to encourage growth and to allow them sufficient time to mature their
growth.
Eutaxia myrtifolia.--It is a profuse and early bloomer. During the
summer and autumn every new shoot should be stopped as soon as it has
attained two or, at most, three joints: by such treatment it can be
easily formed into a neat, compact specimen.
Winter Flowers.--The Cinerarias, Chinese Primroses, Heliotropes,
Perpetual, Tea, and other Roses, will require frequent and diligent
attention as to watering, shifting, &c.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Give immediate and regular attention to the young stock of stove plants
intended for winter blooming. Keep up a moist temperature at all times;
with air during the day. When a few days of gloom occur, the humidity
that sometimes becomes stagnant and injurious should be dissipated by
a free circulation of air when bright weather returns. Keep a free
circulation of air amongst the Orchids by day; endeavour to supply an
abundance of atmospheric moisture during the latter part of the day; and
dispense with shading as much as possible by using it only during a few
hours of the hottest part of the day.
Pay every attention to specimen plants in the stove. Keep them neatly
tied to sticks, or trellises, as the case may require. Give them
a plentiful supply of water, and, if not in flower, syringe them
frequently overhead.
Stanhopeas.--About the end of this or the beginning of next month is the
most proper time to remove and repot them. Persons who wish to grow fine
specimens ought to put them in large baskets, or pots, so that they may
not require to be shifted for several years, as then the plants grow
much finer and flower better than when annually shifted. Now, as soon
as they have done flowering they commence growing, when they should
have plenty of heat and moisture until they have completed their
pseudo-bulbs, when they should be reduced to a comparative state of
rest by gradually withholding water until they show flower; then to
be supplied with atmospheric moisture, but should have no water at the
root, or at least but a small portion, until they begin to grow. As all
the plants belonging to this genus push their flowers downwards, it is
advisable to have them elevated, or put in baskets, where the flowers
can get through and show themselves to advantage.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Figs.--Supply with plenty of water the roots of the trees that are
swelling their second crop; ply the syringe frequently amongst the
foliage, and sprinkle the paths, &c., to keep the atmosphere moist.
Shut up early in the afternoon. As the fruit of the first crop ripens,
curtail the supply of atmospheric moisture--otherwise before they reach
maturity they are apt to turn mouldy. The roots to be regularly supplied
with water, and some liquid manure added about once a week to assist the
second crop. Keep down red spider by the application of sulphur in the
manner so frequently advised of late. Give the fruit that is ripening
the benefit of the sun, by fastening on one side the leaves that shade
it.
Peaches.--The fruit will be all the more delicious for a comparatively
cool temperature while ripening. Examine the fruit daily, and gather
before it is overripe and loses its flavour.
Pines.--Maintain a good bottom heat, and encourage the growth of the
advancing crop by kindly humidity and allowing them plenty of air and
sufficient space from plant to plant. Give air, also, freely to
the young stock in dungpits, to secure strong stocky growth; but a
circulation should not be allowed by giving back and front air at the
same time during hot drying winds. Attend to former directions to
afford the plants swelling their fruit a moist atmosphere by frequent
syringings and by sprinkling the paths and every other available surface
until the fruit begins to change colour, when the atmosphere and soil
should be kept rather dry, to improve the fruit's flavour. See to the
stools from which fruit have been cut. Earth them up, so as to cause
suckers to strike root. Give them a brisk bottom heat, and proper
supplies of water. You will thus gain time and assistance for the
suckers from the declining strength of the parent plant as long as
possible. It is now a good time to start a lot into fruit, as they will
have two or three most favourable months for swelling, and will come
in at a season when they are in very general request. Keep the bark-bed
moderately moist, as in that state it will retain its heat much longer
than if it is allowed to get dry.
Vines.--Keep up a brisk heat to the late Grapes during the day, as it
is advisable to get them well ripened before the season gets too far
advanced. By such means they will be of better quality and keep longer
than if the ripening process be delayed to a later period. Do not allow
plants in pots to remain in the house to cause damp, which, despite
every care in ventilating, is apt to settle on the berries and spoil
them. The outside borders of the late houses should be watered and
mulched, if the weather continue dry.
FOURTH WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The conservatory should now be gay with Balsams, Cockscombs, Fuchsias,
Globe Amaranths, Heliotropes, and the varieties of Japan Lilies. Strict
attention must be paid to all plants in these structures that they
do not suffer from the want of water. Continue to stop over-luxuriant
growth, to obtain compact, sturdy specimens. On the evenings of hot, dry
days, after the plants have been watered, give them a slight syringing,
or sprinkling, over the leaves, and also the ground upon which they are
standing.
Aotus gracillimus.--When done blooming, to be cut down close to the pot.
Aphelexis and Helichrysums.--When past their best state, cut the
flower-stems close into the old wood; to be set in a cool shady place
until they begin to grow, when any that require it may be repotted.
Chrysanthemums.--Propagate by cuttings, or layers, to obtain dwarf
stocky plants. Continue to top the plants that have been planted out in
rows in the open ground, as advised some time ago.
Cinerarias.--Pot off the first batch of seedlings and offsets. Sow seed.
Fuchsias.--Shift in the last batch, and put in cuttings.
Leschenaultias.--When they are going out of bloom, or past their best,
remove the flowers and flower-buds, and put them in a cool place to
start again.
Kalosanthes.--When done blooming, the flower-stems and all straggling
growth to be cut in closely, to form compact specimens for another
season.
Pelargoniums.--Cut back the principal stock, and treat them as advised
lately.
Pimelea spectabilis.--When that and the other kinds have done blooming,
to be freely cut in, and to be set in a cool shady place to break.
Polygalas to be treated in the same manner as the _Pimeleas_.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Look out for insects in the stove, and destroy them as soon as visible.
The _Gishurst Compound_ is worthy of a trial. Follow former instructions
as to moisture and air.
Ixoras.--When done blooming to be cut in rather closely, to be started
in a gentle heat to make fresh growth. The Orchids suspended on baskets,
or on blocks of wood, require a soaking of water at the roots, and
frequent, but slight, syringings overhead. A little fire-heat applied in
the afternoon will be of service to them.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Figs.--If the second crop on the earliest trees is advancing towards
maturity, as soon as the fruit begins to ripen the atmosphere should
be kept dry and rather cool, giving air freely every fine day. Keep the
foliage clean and healthy, and clear from insects, and do not allow the
young shoots to get crowded.
Melons.--Keep up a good bottom heat when the fruit is setting. Keep the
plants on which the fruit is ripening rather dry at the root, with an
abundance of air in fine weather.
Pines.--Air to be admitted freely during hot weather to fruiting and
succession plants. Particular care will be necessary in the application
of water that they may not suffer for want of it, or by saturation. The
walls, paths, and surface of the bed to be kept constantly moist, and
frequent syringings to be given to the young stock. Continue all other
routine operations according to former directions.
Strawberries.--Some lay the runners at once into pots of strong, rich
loam, cutting them away from the parent plants when they have made roots
enough for their own support. Some prefer to lay them in small pots, to
be shifted into larger by-and-by, and others prefer to lay them in their
fruiting-pots. The principal object should be, to attain plants of a
moderate growth, well matured and rested before forcing time.
Vines.--The early houses, when they have been cleared of their fruit,
and the wood is properly ripened may have the sashes removed and
repaired, if required; indeed, every house is purified by free exposure
to the atmosphere for some time. The late crops to be encouraged to
swell by giving the borders good soakings of manure water, and by being
carefully thinned, more especially if they are wanted to keep late.
A little fire-heat will be necessary in unfavourable weather, with an
abundance of air day and night.
AUGUST.
FIRST WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The conservatory borders will now require liberal supplies of water.
Faded blossoms to be constantly removed; straggling growth and exhausted
stock to be cut previous to making a new growth. As the autumn is fast
approaching, the sooner the new growths are encouraged the better, that
they may have sufficient time to mature them. All greenhouse plants will
now be benefited by exposure to the natural atmosphere: the dews
are more refreshing and invigorating than artificial moisture or the
application of the syringe.
Finish _potting_ all specimen plants; for if left until later in the
season they will not have sufficient time to fill their pots with roots,
and, therefore, will be liable to suffer from stagnation of water at the
roots. No position can be worse for a plant than that of surrounding it
with fresh soil for months when the roots should be in a comparatively
dormant state.
Pelargoniums.--Continue to head them down, and to propagate the
cuttings, which will now strike freely in a sunny situation in the open
ground.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Much moisture and free ventilation will be necessary here during warm
weather. The young plants of Euphorbias, Ixoras, Poinsettias, and other
such stove plants, to be rendered bushy by stopping them betimes.
The _AEschynanthus grandiflorus_, _Aphelandra cristata_, _Eranthemum
pulchellum_, Justicias, and any others that are intended for the
decoration of the conservatory in the autumn and early part of winter,
should be carefully looked over, and shifted without delay if they want
more pot-room; the shoots to be tied out thinly, and to be exposed to
as much sun as they will bear without scorching the foliage, to induce
stocky growth. Nothing is more injurious to stove plants than to keep
them growing late in the season, and thus to prevent the ripening of the
wood, which will render them more liable to injuries in winter and more
unproductive of flowers the following season.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Melons.--The plants on which the fruit is ripening to be kept rather
dry at the roots, with free exposure to the air in favourable weather. A
steady bottom heat to be kept up to the late crops.
Peaches.--If the lights have not been taken off the early-forced houses,
it would be advisable to remove them as soon as possible, that the air,
rain, and dews may have free access to act both beneficially on the
trees and to keep down red spider. In those houses which have been
treated as advised in former Calendars, the principal object now should
be to get the wood properly ripened. The late houses to be treated in
a similar manner when the fruit is gathered. Where the trees in
peach-houses have been recently planted, and are not yet in a bearing
state, the shoots will require to be trained carefully, and insects to
be kept down.
Pines.--The plants growing in beds of soil to be carefully attended to
with water, giving at each application sufficient to penetrate the whole
body of soil, as it frequently happens that the surface is moist while
the bottom is quite dry. Pot a portion of the strongest successions for
early forcing next season.
Strawberries.--Continue to lay the runners of the kinds you wish to
force in pots until you have a sufficient number.
Vines.--Muscats, now beginning to ripen, will generally require a little
fire heat to push them on; when ripened in good time they are better
flavoured and keep longer than when the ripening process is delayed to
a late period of the season. Continue to remove the stray laterals that
begin to shade the larger leaves; to be done a little at a time, as
disbudding on an extensive scale is prejudicial to fruit trees. The
young Vines in pots to have every attention, to secure as much growth
and healthy vigour as possible while the growing season lasts. Allow all
young planted Vines to ramble freely without stopping them so closely,
as is frequently practised. Before wasps and flies do much mischief
to ripe Grapes, coarse canvass should be fixed over the top lights and
front lights that are opened for the admission of air. Remove decayed
berries as soon as observed, and keep the house containing ripe fruit
dry and free from dust.
SECOND WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Bulbs.--The selections for winter and spring flowering to be made as
soon as possible, choosing the most suitable varieties for each season;
to be potted at two or three intervals for succession. To be potted
in light fibrous turfy loam of a sandy quality, and placed in a dry
situation; to be covered with three or four inches of old tan or coal
ashes.
Camellias.--The large, old specimens that have set their flower-buds to
be carefully supplied with water; for if they are allowed to get too dry
at the roots they are apt to drop their buds. Young vigorous plants, on
the contrary, will require to be watered rather sparingly, to prevent
them making a second growth.
Cinerarias.--Shift as they require it, and let no neglect as to
watering, &c., cause a check to their growth.
Climbers.--To have a succession late in the season when flowers
become scarce, it is advisable to cut them back for that purpose, more
especially the climbers on rafters or ornamental trellises.
New Holland Plants.--If any have been standing out of doors for some
time, it is advisable to remove the best and most tender varieties to
the cold pits, or other secure situations, to avoid the danger and risk
of exposure to wet or windy weather.
Soils.--Now is a favourable time to collect soils of different sorts for
future use. The advantages of forethought for such matters will become
evident when the time for use arrives. Leaf mould, decomposed sheep,
deer, and cowdung, road and river sand, old Cucumber, Melon, and other
such soils, to be put in separate heaps in a shed, or any other dry
place, protected from drenching rains. Each sort to be numbered, or
named, that no mistake may occur when wanted.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
All plants intended to flower this autumn to be regularly supplied
with water and occasionally with liquid manure; but all the other stove
plants to be watered more sparingly after this time, and the water to
be given early in the morning. The house to be shut up early in the
afternoon with a strong sun heat. Slight fires to be made in the
daytime, if the weather is dull, so that plenty of air may be given to
the plants.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Figs.--If the nights are cold, the house or pit should be closed early,
for the benefit of the second crop of fruit.
Melons.--Withhold water when the fruit is ripening, as a sudden supply
at that time very frequently causes the fruit to crack and become
worthless. Keep the shoots so thin that every leaf may receive the
benefit of the light. Do not expose the fruit to the sun's rays till it
is fully swelled. Give a supply of manure water to the late crops, and
thin out useless laterals. It is advisable to paint the interior of the
frame, or pit, with sulphur: this, with slight syringings and shutting
up early while the sun shines upon it, will keep down insects.
Mushrooms.--Collect some very short stable-litter and horse-droppings,
and turn them over frequently with the addition of a small portion of
turfy loam until they are well incorporated. When moderately dry, to be
packed on shelves or in boxes, and be well-beaten down in layers four or
five inches thick, till the bed is the required thickness--from a foot
to eighteen inches; for success will depend in a great measure upon the
solidity of the bed. To be spawned when there is a brisk heat.
Pines.--If a strong body of fresh materials have recently been added,
the watch-sticks should be frequently examined, and any approach to a
burning heat to be counteracted by lifting the pots, &c. Fruit recently
started and swelling off to have every encouragement for the next two
months. Shut up early, to secure a strong amount of solar heat. Keep all
the growing stock warm and moist, syringing them lightly twice a-day.
Vines.--The early-forced houses, where the wood is nearly ripe, would be
benefited by free exposure to the air; but if the lights are required to
remain on, cleanliness should be observed, and all laterals kept down.
When the fruit is swelling or colouring, and when the weather is wet
or cloudy, a gentle fire, if then applied, will expel damps, and be in
other respects very beneficial to them. Stop all useless growths in the
late houses; do not remove the leaves to expose the fruit to the sun,
unless they are very thick indeed, as they are the principal agents by
which nutriment is carried to the berries.
Vines in Pots.--When the leaves begin to fade, to be removed to the
north side of a wall, and the pots to be laid on their sides, to keep
the roots dry. A little litter thrown over the pots will protect them
from sudden changes.
THIRD WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
As the majority of greenhouse plants are out in the open air, or
in pits, where they have either set, or are setting, their blooms,
preparations should be made for their return, by scrubbing and washing
all the shelves of the greenhouse, and clearing out all crevices and
corners, to banish all insects that may be secreting there. When by
scrubbing, brushing, &c., you have brought everything to the ground, let
no time be lost in clearing the insects, rubbish, &c., off the ground,
and also out of the house. If painting and glazing are necessary, the
sooner they are done the better, leaving the house entirely open for
three weeks or a month, that the effluvium from white lead, which is
prejudicial to plants, may pass off before the lights are put on again.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Shift into pots a size larger any small plants, or indeed any plants
that you are desirous to grow fast, or to make specimen plants, as soon
as they have filled their pots with roots.
Cuttings inserted in pots of light, sandy soil, well drained at the
bottom, will readily strike when plunged in the tan-bed, where there is
a little bottom heat, and covered with bell-glasses, that will allow of
the edge being pressed into the soil inside the pot.
Henceforward a certain degree of care and consideration will be
necessary to have the summer growth of plants generally--and especially
that of all those whose period of excitement is continued over a certain
portion of the autumn--so arranged and circumstanced as to secure its
perfect maturity, or, in gardening terms, to have it "well ripened." For
that purpose it is necessary to avoid the application of moisture
beyond what is necessary to prevent a decided check in the growth of the
plants, to expose them to the influence of light, by not suffering them
to crowd or overhang each other, and to prevent from what cause soever
the too sudden declension of the average temperature to which they are
exposed.
The Orchidaceous Plants that are growing to have plenty of moisture and
heat, it will be easily seen when their growth is completed, and then
it is proper to let them go to rest by gradually lessening the supply of
water, and removing them to a cooler part of the house.
Any Orchids that you are desirous of increasing may be separated or
potted into small pots, or fastened to blocks, or placed in baskets.
Fill pots with pieces of turfy peat the size of Walnuts, and peg them
altogether until they form a cone above the pot. On the summit place
your plant, which is, in fact, a piece cut off another plant, and with
four pegs or wires make it fast. Let the roots go where they please
in the pot, or outside it. Orchids depend more for sustenance upon the
atmosphere and moisture, than upon the soil.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Peaches.--It is advisable, when practicable, to get the lights off the
early houses, presuming that the trees are fast advancing towards a
state of rest. The practice is certainly not absolutely indispensable,
but it is of much benefit to the trees. Whether the lights are off or
on, attention may now be given to the repairs of glass or woodwork
where necessary, and to finish with a coat of paint and whitewashing, if
possible.
Pines.--The plants swelling their fruit to be carefully looked over in
hot weather that they may receive no check for want of water. Continue
to pot or plant suckers as soon as they are taken off the parent plants,
as they are apt to shrivel much at this season, if left out of the
ground. Attend to the state of the linings to dung pits, as all Pine
plants, in whatever situation, will require a lively bottom heat of 90
deg..
Vines.--The houses containing late Grapes to be shut up warm and rather
early (about four o'clock), in order to dispense, if possible, with
fires, giving air by seven o'clock in the morning, and increasing it
abundantly towards noon, and to be then diminished at intervals, in
accordance with the state of the weather.
FOURTH WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The plants in these houses should receive particular attention that they
do not suffer from want of water or fresh potting; the water to be
given in the morning or forenoon, that the plants and houses may be dry
towards night, to prevent the ill effects arising from damps.
Camellias.--Look over them, and disbud where too many are set in a
cluster. Resurface the soil, and see that the drainage is efficient.
New Holland Plants.--Heaths and other such hardwooded plants that have
been placed out of doors will now do best in a cold pit or frame, where
they can be protected from heavy rains.
Pelargoniums.--When the shoots of the plants that have been cut down are
about an inch long, the old soil must be shaken away, the roots slightly
trimmed, and then repotted into small pots, &c., as advised early in
July. Some of the cuttings may now be fit for potting off; when potted,
to be placed in a pit or frame, kept close, and shaded until they have
made fresh roots, when they should be placed out in an open situation to
grow firm and stocky, pinching out the leading shoots; and to be placed
on coal ashes, slates, or boards, to prevent the admission of worms. Sow
the seed immediately it is gathered, and also that of Fuchsias, or of
any other perennial plant, if ripe before the middle of September.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
The stove plants of strong and early growth may be allowed a gradual
increase of ventilation and more sunlight. Plenty of moisture is still
essential for the general stock. Shading may now be dispensed with,
except during bright sunbursts. Careful attention to be given to the
Allamandas, Echites, Euphorbias, Luculias, Stephanotises, Dipladenias,
and other such valuable stove plants. The surface soil of large
specimens to be stirred, and weeds and moss removed.
Gesnera zebrina.--Shift them for winter flowering; they delight in a
mixture composed of equal parts of fibrous loam, heath soil, and leaf
mould. All plants after shifting do best when placed in a gentle bottom
heat; to be syringed occasionally, and shaded during bright sunshine.
Shift on all Orchids that now require it, and are making their growth.
Top dress others, if they require it. All that are growing freely in
pots or baskets, or on blocks, to be syringed with clear, tepid, soft
water in the afternoons of fine days, and to be shut up early.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Figs.--If any are growing against the back wall of a vinery, or other
such structure, it may be advisable to give them a good soaking of
water, and but very little, if any, after--as a dry atmosphere is
necessary to ripen the fruit.
Melons.--Continue to supply them with bottom heat. If they are growing
in pits or frames, keep the linings well topped up or renewed, to
produce a comfortable heat inside; for without it canker is apt to set
in and destroy the plants.
Mushrooms.--In making beds for these on shelves, or in boxes, as
recommended a fortnight ago, or on the floor, let the whole mass be made
very firm by well-beating it as it is put on in layers. It is advisable
when the spawn is put in to cover it with good, strong, fresh loam
at least from two to three inches thick, and to make it as firm as
possible. The Mushrooms will come stronger and of much better quality
than if partly-exhausted soil is used.
Pines.--If the winter fruit have finished blossoming, supply them
occasionally with clear liquid manure when they want water. The growth
of the crown to be checked, and all useless suckers, gills, &c., to
be removed. When a house or pit is devoted to late Pines alone, an
abundance of moisture should be supplied. Give abundance of air to the
young stock in dungpits, and increase the dryness of the atmosphere,
to induce maturity of growth and a hardy constitution against winter.
Shift, if not already done, succession plants into larger pots. Any
plants recently potted to be shaded during bright sunshine, sprinkled
overhead every afternoon, and the house closed early. The sprinkling
will be sufficient without watering at the root until the plants begin
to grow.
Vineries.--Continue to secure a dry state of the atmosphere when the
ripe fruit is intended to hang for any length of time, using a little
fire heat when necessary to dispel damp. To ripen the fruit in late
vineries, it is frequently necessary to use fire heat, but more
especially when the external temperature ranges below 50 deg..
SEPTEMBER.
FIRST WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Balsams.--Give them a good watering when they show indications of
drooping; but be cautious in watering when the least stagnation appears,
as saturation will be death to them.
Bulbs.--Pot Hyacinths and other such bulbs for forcing. When potted, to
be placed in a dry, cool situation, as advised in the early part of the
month, and covered with some porous material--such as coal ashes, old
spent tanner's bark, coarse sand, or any other material that will serve
to keep the roots not only cool and un-acted on by atmospheric changes,
but which, from being moderately damp, will not abstract moisture from
the roots, but keep them uniformly and evenly moistened. The Cape bulbs,
if obtained now, may be had in flower at various periods throughout the
winter and early spring. _Amaryllis Johnsoni_, _vittata_, and many
other varieties, are splendid. Ornithogalum, both the white and
orange-flowered species, the free-growing species of Ixia, and the
varieties of _Sparaxis tricolor_, are desirable plants that may be
easily bloomed by gentle forcing.
Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Pot off seedlings into small pots, and keep
them close in a frame for some days. Put in cuttings of the best kinds;
they will strike readily in a common frame.
Chrysanthemums.--They should now be stopped for the last time, to
produce a late succession of bloom.
Climbers.--Be careful to train the shoots, that the trellis or stakes
may be furnished and clothed with foliage and flowers from the rim of
the pot upwards.
Fuchsias.--To have a late bloom, cut back about half of the young wood,
trimming the plants to handsome shapes. If placed or plunged in a little
bottom heat they will break again, and continue blooming till Christmas.
Lilium lancifolium.--Supply them cautiously with water, as advised for
Balsams, and shade the flowers from bright sunshine, to prolong their
beauty. When they have done blooming, to be removed to the foot of a
south wall or fence to ripen their growth. Water to be given sparingly
until their tops show signs of decay, when they may be laid on
their sides till potting time. The same treatment is recommended for
_Gladioli_ and plants of like habit.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Some judgment will now be necessary to arrange the plants that are
finishing or have completed their season's growth in the coolest part
of the house, where they should be freely supplied with air, and rather
cautiously and sparingly with water. While others in free growth should
be encouraged with warmth and moisture by giving but very little air and
a liberal supply of water during very fine sunshiny weather.
FORCING-HOUSES.
When the fruit in the early houses is gathered, the great object should
be to ripen the wood. A certain degree of attention is necessary to be
given by exposing them to light and air, and preserving the leaves from
injury, as it is upon their healthy action that the future crop depends.
Cherries.--Trees in tubs, or large pots, if intended for early forcing,
to be removed to a cool, and plunged in an open airy, situation, to
continue the regular root action, upon which much of their future
success will depend.
Figs.--Withhold water from the borders where the second crop of fruit is
ripening. Trees in tubs, or large pots, intended for early forcing, to
be treated as advised for Cherries.
Peaches.--If mildew attack the trees before the leaves have performed
their necessary functions, dust the affected shoots with sulphur. Trees
in pots to be treated as recommended for Cherries.
Pines.--Take advantage of fine weather to encourage free growth where
it is desirable. Plants swelling their fruit to be supplied occasionally
with clear liquid manure. The succession plants to be supplied with
water at the roots, as inattention to that particular during hot weather
is very likely to cause some of the plants to fruit prematurely.
Strawberries.--The stock intended for forcing to be carefully attended
to; to be kept free from runners and weeds; and, when necessary, to
be liberally watered. Free exposure to sun and air, and a little weak
liquid manure, will assist to produce stout healthy plants for forcing.
Vines.--When the fruit is ripe, give air freely, and keep the house as
cool and dry as possible. Stop laterals in the late houses, and expose
the foliage to light, to make it as healthy and vigorous as possible.
Vines in pots to be treated as advised for Cherries.
SECOND WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
As boisterous winds, heavy rains, and other atmospheric changes
occur about this time, it is advisable to draft the choicest out-door
greenhouse plants to their winter quarters. Each plant to be carefully
examined, dead leaves removed, and any defects in the soil or drainage
of the pots to be remedied. If worm-casts, or other indications of
the presence of worms, appear on the surface of the soil, by carefully
turning the ball of soil out of the pot they can generally be picked
out. If they are not visible on the outside of the ball, a small peg
stuck in will direct particular attention to it until the intruder is
removed. When staging the plants, a pleasing variety may be introduced
by placing a few on inverted pots. Sufficient space to be given to
each plant to allow the air to circulate freely around. If there is
not sufficient room for all, the oldest or mis-shapen plants may be
rejected, or wintered in a pit or vinery. When housed, all the air
possible should be given in fine weather by the entire withdrawal of the
lights, and only reducing the ventilation when unfavourable changes in
the weather take place.
Heliotropes.--Pay attention to keep them in a growing, healthy state for
winter flowering.
Mignonette.--Sow now and a month hence, for winter and spring blooming.
Pinks.--Pot _Anne Boleyne_ and other sorts, to be well established
before they are wanted for forcing.
Roses.--Some of the Tea-scented and China kinds, being placed under
glass, and to be repotted if requisite, will promote immediate growth
and early blooming.
Violets.--Take up with good balls, to be potted in rotten turf, or leaf
mould and road-scrapings, in 48 or 32-sized pots, placed in a pit or
frame near the glass, for flowers in the winter and early spring.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
As the season of active growth is now getting to a close, it is
advisable to ripen off gradually the pseudo-bulbs and strong healthy
shoots by keeping up a genial atmosphere, ranging from 70 deg. to
80 deg., with abundance of air in favourable weather. Cattleyas,
_Epidendrum Skinneri_, Laelias, _Lycaste Skinneri_, and _Odontoglossum
grande_, to be kept rather cool, and to be slightly syringed
occasionally. Water to be given more sparingly to all the plants except
such as are growing freely. Shading to be now dispensed with as much as
possible, that the plants may have the benefit of the ripening influence
of the sun.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Figs.--Continue to pay strict attention to the state of the atmosphere.
Where the fruit is still swelling and ripening, slight fires will be
useful in dull, cold weather, to assist in ripening the fruit; and but
little syringing and watering will be required from this time forward.
Melons.--Take advantage of fine weather by giving plenty of air,
shutting up early, and keeping the shoots regularly thinned. In whatever
structure they may be growing, it is advisable to keep up the bottom
heat by a gentle fire, or by linings.
Peaches.--We will suppose the trees to be now fully exposed to the air
night and day, and will, therefore, require but little attention, except
an occasional washing with the engine, to remove insects and to allow
the foliage to perform its functions to a natural decay. If a blank
in the house is to be filled up, it may be done as soon as the crop is
gathered from the open wall; and the crop to be expected from the same
tree next season will depend upon the care with which it is removed, as
there will be sufficient time for the wood to be ripened and the tree to
make fresh roots, and to get sufficiently established before winter.
Pines.--Where young stock is grown in dung-pits, care to be taken by
giving air freely in favourable weather, to avoid growing the plants
weakly in a close and warm temperature, and by a sufficient command of
heat from the linings to allow a little air to be given at night and on
cloudy days.
Vines.--All long growths, whether bearing or not, to be stopped, as it
is getting too late for them to be benefited by the foliage made after
this period of the year. A gentle fire in damp weather is useful to keep
the atmosphere dry when the fruit is ripe. The bunches to be frequently
and carefully looked over and all tainted berries removed, and the
foliage kept free from insects. Fire heat is also necessary where
the fruit is not yet ripe, and where the fruit is cut it is sometimes
necessary to keep the atmosphere dry and rather warm, to ripen the wood.
THIRD WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Finish housing the greenhouse plants, and give them as much air as
possible; for if air is too sparingly admitted at this season, when
many of the plants have not finished their growth, it will cause them to
produce weak and tender shoots, which will be very liable to damp off
at a more advanced period when the inclemency of the external air will
cause them to be kept close. Water to be liberally supplied when they
are first taken into the house, as the dry boards on which they may
stand, or the elevated situation and free circulation of air will
occasion a more frequent want of that element than when they stood on
the moist earth. However, by no means go to the extreme, but give it
only when evidently necessary.
Azaleas.--Plants that have set their blooms to be removed to the
greenhouse; but the late kinds to remain in heat until their growth is
matured and the bloom set. If a few are required to bloom at Christmas,
or a little after, they should be kept in heat until the bloom-buds have
swelled to a good size, when they will require but very little forcing
to start them into bloom.
Bulbs.--Procure and pot them as soon as possible, as much of the success
of early forcing depends upon early potting.
Camellias.--Treat them as advised for Azaleas.
Heaths.--Look sharply after mildew, as plants that have been growing
freely in a shady situation in the open air, and are in a rather
succulent state when taken indoors, are liable to be attacked by this
pest, which should be removed on its first appearance by an application
of sulphur.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Commence a gradual reduction of the temperature in correspondence with
the decline of external heat; by such means the plants will be better
prepared to withstand the gloom and other vicissitudes of the winter
season.
Begonias.--Encourage the different kinds for winter flowering by
shifting them, if necessary, into larger pots. They succeed best in a
compost of half leaf mould and half loam. They grow luxuriantly in a
soil composed entirely of decayed vegetable matter; but in that they are
liable to rot off at the base of the stem.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Figs.--Trees in tubs or pots still bearing to be assisted with a little
liquid manure when dry. Withhold water gradually from the borders, to
induce an early, but not a too premature, ripeness of the wood and an
early rest.
Peaches.--The flues of the early house may now be cleaned, and, if not
yet done, the lights washed and painted, if necessary.
Pines.--If there are some of the spring fruiting plants still remaining
in the fruiting-house, they should either be placed at one end of the
pit, or removed to a small house by themselves; the house should then be
prepared for the best of the succession plants for the second crop next
summer. Plants showing fruit after this time, although they cannot be
expected to produce as fine fruit as if earlier in the season, will,
nevertheless, be found very useful, and should have every attention
given to them while the season continues favourable. To be placed in the
warmest corner of the house, and to be supplied when dry with a little
liquid manure. Continue to grow on the young stock while the weather
continues favourable; for fine sunny days and moist growing nights are
all that we can desire. A good portion of solar heat to be secured by
shutting up early. On cold nights gentle fires will be necessary to keep
up the temperature to 70 deg. towards morning.
Vines.--The Vines that are to be forced early, if the wood is well
ripened and all the leaves nearly off, may be pruned without much
fear of bleeding, keeping the house as cool as possible; but if, from
appearances, the sap is not considered to be sufficiently at rest, the
pruning should be postponed. Continue to forward the Grapes not yet
ripe by giving a little fire heat during the day. Air to be given to the
house as soon as the sun shines upon it, as the vapour that ascends, if
not allowed to pass off by ventilation, will cause the Grapes to become
mouldy and worthless.
FOURTH WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The plants that have been in the open borders during the summer to be
taken up, the roots carefully cut back, and repotted; to be placed in a
gentle bottom heat, or in some close place, until they have made fresh
roots, the better to resist the vicissitudes of the dull, dreary months
of the approaching winter.
American Plants.--If a rich display of bloom is desired in early spring,
the plants should be now potted in rather small pots, to be plunged in
the warmest part of the garden, and introduced to the forcing-house from
November until February, as they may be required. The most suitable for
such a purpose are the Azaleas of the _nudiflora_ class with various
hybrids, _Andromeda pulverulenta_, _Daphne cneorum_, Kalmias, of
sorts, _Ledum latifolium_ and _L. thymifolium_, _Polygala Chamoebuxus_,
Rhododendrons, and _Rhodora Canadense_.
Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Remove them to a shelf as near the glass as
possible, with plenty of air at all favourable opportunities. To be duly
supplied with water.
Camellias.--Water to be given carefully, to prevent the dropping of the
buds. The late-flowering plants to be thinned of their buds, leaving not
more than two buds on each shoot, and retaining the largest and smallest
to get a long succession of bloom. The leaves, if necessary, to be
washed clean.
Chinese Primroses.--Place them as advised for Calceolarias.
Cinerarias.--Protect them from the ravages of green fly by the
application of the Gishurst infallible compound.
Fuchsias.--Continue to encourage the late stock for bloom. Seeds may be
sown at once, where there is a greenhouse or other means of sheltering
them from frost and damp; but if you have no such convenience, it is
advisable to postpone the sowing until spring. The seed is separated
most easily from the pulp by bruising the berries amongst dry sand, and
allowing it to stand in the sun, or in a warm place, until the moisture
has evaporated, when the seed and sand will be intermixed, and in a fit
state to be sown.
Heaths.--On fine mornings syringe them, and Epacrises and Pimeleas, and
give all possible ventilation, both night and day, while the weather
continues favourable.
New Holland Plants.--Place them in situations to enjoy a considerable
share of air and light. All luxuriant shoots to be stopped, to maintain
symmetry and uniformity of growth. A vigilant eye should be kept upon
them almost daily, to see that neither mildew, green fly, nor other such
enemies be allowed to injure them.
Orange Trees.--If they have been standing out during the summer, the
sooner they are returned to their winter quarters the better. Clean
the leaves, if necessary, and fresh surface the soil in which they are
growing.
Succulents.--Cacti, Euphorbiae, and other such plants to be gradually
curtailed in the supply of water as they approach the winter and their
season of rest.
Tropaeolums.--If any of this beautiful tribe, particularly _T.
tricolorum_ or _T. Brachyseras_ that have flowered early in the season,
begin to grow, they should not be checked, but allowed to grow slowly
through the winter; but if there is no appearance of growth--which is
best for their future success--the roots should be kept dormant, in a
cool place, with the soil about them quite dry, and protected from mice.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Stove plants cannot be too cautiously watered late in the autumn.
Nothing is now wanted but to keep the soil from getting quite dry.
Slight fires to be made in the forenoons of dull and rainy days, not so
much for the purpose of raising the temperature as for drying the house.
Air to be given at all favourable opportunities, to maintain a healthy
atmosphere. Several of the Orchids--viz., Aerides, Dendrobiums,
Saccolabiums, Vandas, &c., may be encouraged by the application of a
high temperature, with much moisture and less shading, to make further
and sometimes considerable growth.
Cattleyas.--Young plants may also be encouraged to grow for some time
longer; but older specimens should be reduced to a comparatively dormant
state by a gradual diminution in the supply of water, and a decrease in
temperature, with less shading.
Stanhopeas.--To be treated as advised for Cattleyas.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Continue to make fresh beds as formerly directed, and prepare fresh
material for successional ones. To ensure success it is advisable never
to allow the manure to be put together in a dry state, nor to get too
far exhausted, but in that medium state when the strong fermentation has
passed off, and a moderate heat is likely to remain in it for some time.
The temperature to be kept from 60 deg. to 65 deg., with the admission
of air for several hours daily.
Cherries.--Whether they are in pots or in borders, and have arrived at,
or are only approaching, a comparatively dormant state when but little
attention will be necessary, still that little will be required to keep
them clear of insects and of the leaves as they become sufficiently
ripe, when they come readily off with a touch. The old surface of the
soil of those grown in pots to be removed, and the same quantity of
fresh, in a rough state, put in its place. Remove them without further
delay, if not already done, as advised in the early part of the month,
to the north side of a wall or hedge until wanted; or if not wanted
until a sharp frost sets in, they should be protected from its icy
grasp.
Figs.--Trees in pots to be treated as advised for Cherries.
Melons.--Although the weather may have been favourable for ripening the
late fruit, they will in some places still require the assistance of a
good top and bottom heat, and a large portion of air in the middle of
the day.
Peaches.--Trees in pots to be pruned, and treated as recommended for
Cherries. No time should be lost if fresh trees are to be planted in the
place of any that may be worn out. The choice should be made of young
trees that are in a bearing state, and all the better if they had been
moved last autumn. In pruning the trees, after the leaves have dropped,
be sure not to leave them too crowded; but if the summer pruning, as
frequently advised, have been properly done, but very little, if any,
will be required now. To remove the leaves from the trees in the early
houses it is advisable to shake them daily, and sometimes to brush them
gently with a few pieces of birch-spray tied in a bundle. All foreright
shoots to be removed, and the trees in the late houses kept free from
insects.
Pines.--Persevere in former directions as to general routine management.
Whilst fine weather continues air may be given liberally; and shut up
earlier in the afternoon to secure as much sun heat as possible. Plants
swelling their fruit to be assisted with a brisk temperature, both at
top and bottom, from 65 deg. to 70 deg. at night, allowing it to rise to
80 deg. on sunny days with a steady bottom heat of about 80 deg.. When
watering is necessary let it be given in sufficient quantity to moisten
the whole of the soil. The suckers and crowns that were potted in the
summer months should now be shifted, if they have grown freely; they
should then be plunged in a brisk bottom heat in the succession-house or
pit, from which the plants have been removed, to the fruiting-house. Any
remaining suckers on the old stools to be taken off, potted, and plunged
in a brisk heat in the nursing pit.
Vines.--The early house, or the first lot of Vines in pots, if it is
intended to start them in November or December, to be pruned, that
sufficient time may be allowed to heal up the wounds, and the buds to
become more plump and prominent. The border of the early house to be
thatched with straw, or covered with any other such material, to protect
it from heavy rains. It is also advisable in some situations to cover
the borders of the houses in which it is intended to keep Grapes late,
to prevent the soil getting saturated about the roots. Continue to look
over ripe fruit, cutting out the mouldy or tainted berries; applying
gentle fires only when necessary to expel damps, with a free circulation
of air--as a warm, close atmosphere is as injurious as damp. Where the
long-rod system is adopted, the old shoots should be cut down as soon as
the fruit is gathered; and, whatever system is adopted, if there are any
shoots to remove they should be taken out as soon as they can be spared;
the ends of the remaining shoots, if green, to be cut off. Continue to
pay strict attention to late Grapes, look over them daily, and cut out
every decayed berry.
OCTOBER.
FIRST WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The plants when newly set in the house are very liable to lose a portion
of their leaves: these should be removed, and the plants kept supplied
with water, so as to preserve the soil moderately moist throughout.
Air to be given every day, and also a portion at night, if the weather
continue mild.
Bulbs (Dutch).--All kinds to be immediately potted and plunged in
a convenient situation ready to be removed, when wanted, to the
forcing-house or pit. If potted and treated as advised some time ago, a
few of them may now be excited into growth.
Chrysanthemums.--Take up the plants from the open ground; choose a
showery day for the purpose. After potting to be well watered and shaded
for a few days, then placed in a cold pit, or removed to the greenhouse,
and neatly tied to stakes. The buds to be thinned for a fine display.
Gladioli.--Pot them, and Ixias, Sparaxis, &c.; and to be watered
sparingly until they begin to grow.
Lily of the Valley.--Pot some, to be treated as advised for Bulbs, that
a regular supply of this favourite flower may be had during winter.
Shrubs.--Get in, if not already done. A supply of American plants to be
potted, as advised a fortnight ago, and plunged in old tan until wanted
for forcing.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Continue to act in unison with the season, allowing the temperature to
decline slightly as light decreases. Although the Aerides, Dendrobiums,
&c., will continue to enjoy a temperature of 80 deg. by day and 70 deg.
by night, the Cattleyas will require 10 deg. or 15 deg. less to bring
them to a healthy state of rest; for if kept in constant excitement they
will continue to sprout buds from their pseudo-bulbs, which generally
adds to the size of the plant at the expense of the blooms.
Achimenes picta.--Promote their growth by every attention, also _Gesnera
zebrina_, which adds much to the beauty of the stove during winter.
Begonias.--Encourage the different kinds for winter flowering by giving
them larger pots if required.
Euphorbia fulgens and splendens.--These are also worthy of especial
attention, as they contribute to enliven the house at the dullest season
of the year when flowers are scarce.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cucumbers.--To prolong the season of fine crisp fruit it is necessary
to keep the plants clean and healthy by giving them plenty of top and
bottom heat.
Figs.--The trees having no fruit likely to come to perfection, and whose
leaves are fading, to be kept cool and dry, to induce an early rest. A
seasonal rest should also be given by the same means to trees in pots,
that they may be in a fit state for forcing early.
Melons.--Continue to maintain a warm, dry atmosphere, to give flavour to
the fruit. They will require little or no water after this.
Peaches.--Vacancies to be filled with trees from the walls on the
open ground. This is a plan preferable to having young trees from the
nursery, which are usually some years in covering the space allotted to
them. Where the lights have been wholly removed, after being repaired
and painted, they should be put upon the houses to protect the trees and
borders from unfavourable weather.
Pines.--Ripening fruit to be kept in a dry, warm atmosphere, to give it
flavour. The swelling fruit to have a warm, moist atmosphere. Water to
be given to the plants cautiously; every one to be examined before it
receives any, and manure water to be dispensed with altogether. The heat
of the dung-pits to be kept up by renewing the linings. The crowns and
suckers that are planted in the tan to have no water; all they require
is attention in giving air and keeping up the heat.
Vines.--Attention to be given to the young Vines in pots that are
intended for forcing, that they may not become soddened, which would
injure the young roots considerably. Where netting or any other such
material had been used over the lights that open in houses containing
fruit, to prevent the ingress of wasps, it may be taken down as little
mischief will now be apprehended from their attacks. Mice are sometimes
very troublesome in vineries at this season, and will spoil a whole
house of Grapes in a short time if not prevented. Traps should,
therefore, be kept set, and every means used to prevent their ingress
from the garden. Cover the border when the trees are planted outside,
with a good coat of fern or any other such material before they become
saturated and chilled by the autumnal rains, to be laid on thickly in
layers, beginning at the front of the border, the whole to be covered
with a thin layer of good straw, and fastened down as a thatcher does
the straw on stacks.
SECOND WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The plants being cleaned, surfaced, staked, and arranged, they will
require but little beyond the ordinary attentions of watering and
regulating the admission of air. Plants, when fresh surfaced, sometimes
droop without any apparent cause, which generally arises from the roots
being very dry; the fresh soil absorbing most of the moisture, and
the water escaping between the pot and ball of earth. This is usually
brought on by surfacing the plants when dry: as soon, therefore, as the
consequences are observed, the plants should be examined, and sufficient
water given to wet the ball of earth thoroughly.
Chrysanthemums.--Treat them without further delay as advised in a late
Calendar. An occasional and moderate supply of clear liquid manure
will assist to develope their flowers to greater perfection. If any
indication of mildew appear an application of the flowers of sulphur,
when the foliage is damp, will banish it.
Fuchsias.--Encourage the young stock to continue their blooming by the
application of a little weak liquid manure. When the flowering is over,
and they have lost most of their leaves, they may then be set aside in
any corner free from frost for the winter. To be kept moderately dry.
Myrtles.--These and other such evergreen plants requiring protection
to be placed in pits or frames, or in any other structure, as near the
glass as possible. To be watered regularly; but, like all other plants,
care must be taken that they do not get too much at any time during the
winter.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
The plants that have taken their rest should be shaken out, and
repotted; pruning back such as require it, and placing them in a gentle
bottom heat. The Orchids showing bloom--such as the Cypripediums,
_Phajus grandifolius_ and _Stenorhynchus speciosus_--to be supplied
with plenty of heat and moisture. Some of the other sorts--such as the
Catasetums, the Cycnoches, Lycastes, &c., that are approaching their
dormant state--to be accommodated, if possible, with a drier and cooler
atmosphere. All fast-growing plants--such as Clerodendrums, Vincas,
&c.--that require large pots in summer, to be now turned out of their
pots, the soil to be shaken from them, and repotted into the smallest
sized pots that will contain them, without pruning the roots much at
this time.
Climbers.--Some of the most rambling will now want some pruning, more
especially where they obstruct the light in any material degree. The
Combretums, Echites, Ipomsaeas, Mandevillas, late-blooming Passifloras,
Pergularias, Stephanotises, Thunbergias, &c., which are still growing,
to be regulated with a more gentle hand, cutting out but little more
than barren shoots, and drawing the remainder into somewhat closer
festoons, to allow the more free admission of sunlight into the interior
of the house.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cucumbers.--The plants for a winter supply of fruit should now be making
progress. Keep the vines thin and use every means to keep up a good
heat, with liberal admissions of air at all favourable opportunities, to
get them strong and vigorous against the winter months. Stop mildew by
dusting the leaves with sulphur.
Mushrooms.--Succession-beds to be made according to previous directions.
Give a good sprinkling to those in bearing, to produce a genial
humidity; and turn the covering material occasionally, to keep them
sweet and free from mouldiness.
Peaches.--When the trees in the early house are pruned, it is advisable
to cover the cuts, when dry, with white lead, to prevent the admission
of air and water to the wound. Wash the trellis, whitewash the flues and
walls, and make every part of the house clean. Dress the trees with a
mixture of soft soap and sulphur in hot water; to be well rubbed in with
a brush or sponge.
Vines.--Continue to look over the ripe Grapes, cutting out any decaying
berries. If the fruit is to be kept for any length of time, and if any
plants, through want of other accommodation, must be kept under the
Vines, they should be watered in the morning, using a little fire heat
in the day, with air, to expel damp before night. Whatever system of
pruning is adopted, whether the long-rod or spur, it is advisable, when
the brown scale is visible, to take off the loose bark, to wash them,
and the wires and rafters, with soft soap dissolved in hot water, using
a hard brush, being careful not to injure the buds; afterwards to apply
hot lime, made to the consistency of thick paint.
THIRD WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The decline of temperature and less watering must go on progressively,
more especially in dull weather, with free ventilation at all
favourable opportunities. If the weather be cold, use a little fire-heat
occasionally during the day, especially where there are many plants in
bloom, that ventilation may be given to expel damp and stagnant air.
Cinerarias.--Plants that have filled their small pots with roots to be
shifted, according to their size and strength, into larger pots. The
compost to be one part turfy loam, one part peat or leaf mould, and one
part rotten horsedung. They delight on a cool bottom, and will thrive
tolerably well in a cold pit, protected from frost during the winter.
They should be placed on a dry bottom of coal ashes, and kept as near to
the glass as possible.
Heaths.--They may, if there is no room for them in the greenhouse,
be kept in a cold pit, or frame, during the winter. Water to be given
carefully on the forenoon of a fine day. Frost to be excluded by mats,
or other covering; but they can be grown sufficiently hardy by free
exposure to bear a few degrees of frost without injury if they are
shaded from the sun's rays until gradually thawed.
Mignonette.--Sow, to come into bloom about the end of February. The soil
to be rich, light, and the pots to have a good supply of crocks at
the bottom, as the success of growing this favourite plant through the
winter will depend in a great measure upon the drainage and keeping the
plants dry and untouched by frosts. Those who have a hotbed frame will
find it useful to start the seeds by moderate heat. Others who have no
such convenience may place their pots in a cold frame in a sheltered
situation, and upon a floor of rough stones overlaid with ashes.
Pelargoniums.--The more dormant they can be kept during the winter the
better. Therefore, only a very moderate supply of water should be
given to keep them from flagging, and a liberal supply of air at all
favourable opportunities.
Verbenas.--To be placed on swing or other shelves as near to the glass
as possible. They require plenty of air, the extirpation of green fly,
and a moderate supply of water to preserve them in a healthy condition.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Ferns.--Sow the seeds, or spores, when ripe. A convenient sized pot to
be filled with sandy peat, finishing with a few rough lumpy pieces to
form an uneven surface. The seeds to be shaken over the tops and sides
of these pieces of soil, by which there is more probability of some of
them vegetating than if they had been sown on a level surface where
the whole of the seed would be subjected to the same kind of treatment,
which might with ordinary care be either too wet or too dry. The pot
to be set in a saucer that contains a little water, which will feed the
whole mass with sufficient moisture without a drop being required on
the surface of the pot. The seedlings succeed best in a cool part of the
stove where evaporation can be most effectually prevented; but they do
not like to be continually kept close under a bell-glass.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cucumbers.--Top dress the plants in pots or boxes with leaf mould,
supplying those that are rooting freely with an abundance of atmospheric
moisture, and free circulation of air, stopping at every second joint,
and setting the fruit as the blossom expands.
Strawberries.--It is usual, when the stock of plants in pots is large,
to lay them on their sides on the south side of a wall or fence, packed
in dry coal ashes, and topped with boards, or any other such covering,
to protect them from heavy falls of rain until they are wanted for
forcing.
FOURTH WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
As fresh air is indispensable for the health of plants, and as fogs
occur about this time, it is essential to apply a little fire-heat
during the day, to expel damps, and to cause a desirable activity in the
circulation of the air. Attend to cleanliness, picking off dead leaves,
and the destruction of insects.
Bulbs.--Pot Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, &c., to flower late in the
spring; also the Ixiae and Gladioli, and various other Irideae; and
also Oxalis, Lachenalia, &c. They delight in light open soil composed
of peat, loam, and sand, and rotten leaf mould as an addition to, or
substitute for, the peat.
Cinerarias.--Give the final shift to the plants intended to flower as
specimens in early spring.
Chrysanthemums to be treated with manure water occasionally. All suckers
and spindly shoots to be removed, and the flowers to be thinned.
Pelargoniums.--A little fire-heat by day, with plenty of air, will be
of service to drive off the damp and stagnant atmosphere caused by heavy
rains. Watering, if necessary, to be given in the morning; the principal
shoots to be tied into a regular form, and the weakly and useless
ones removed; to be placed near the glass, to encourage a sturdy,
short-jointed growth. Two ounces of the Gishurst compound, dissolved in
one gallon of soft water, will speedily banish the green fly.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cucumbers.--Keep them tied in as they grow; stop the side-shoots at the
second joint; allow the leader to grow to the required length before
stopping it; and pinch off the young fruit if you think they are not
sufficiently strong to carry a crop.
Peaches.--Prune and dress the trees as soon as they lose their leaves.
If the lights are still off any of the early houses the sooner they are
put on the better. An abundance of air to be given.
Pines.--The temperature of the fruit-swelling plants to range from 60
deg. to 65 deg. at night, with an increase during the day in accordance
with the state of the weather, whether bright and sunny, or rainy,
foggy, or frosty; and the succession plants a few degrees less. Humidity
to be considerably reduced, as it tends at this season to produce weak
and immature growth. The bark-beds of strong succession plants that
are required to start into fruit early, to be renewed by having a small
quantity added to the surface of the bed. Pits heated by dung will
require covering with mats at night: when covered let every other light
be slightly raised, to allow the steam to pass off. When the covering is
off it will escape through the laps of the glass. Take advantage of all
opportunities for giving a little air. If it can be done every day, so
much the better for the health of the plants.
Vines.--The Vines in late houses that will not require to be pruned for
some time should have the tops or other portions of the immature wood
cut off, to give strength and plumpness to the back eyes. If the houses
are dry, kept free from drip, and the scissors employed amongst decaying
berries, the fruit that now remains will be in a good condition for
holding on for a long time.
NOVEMBER.
FIRST WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Now that the dull, foggy days and sharp frosty nights have arrived, it
is necessary to keep all plants that have finished their growth free
from excitement, and rather dry at their roots. A gentle fire to
be applied during the day, which will allow the advantage of a free
circulation of fresh air, and, by closing up early in the afternoon,
will retain sufficient heat to resist the encroachments of ordinary
frosts during the night. But if the frost should set in severely, night
coverings, if possible, should be applied in preference to fire-heat.
American Plants, &c.--Pot, if not done, Rhododendrons, Kalmias, hardy
Azaleas, Lily of the Valley, and other plants usually required for
winter forcing.
Chrysanthemums.--They will require an abundance of air to prevent the
flowers expanding weakly. Keep them well supplied with water, and the
leaves in a healthy state; for a great portion of their beauty depends
upon so doing. They may sometimes be seen almost entirely denuded of
leaves when in flower, which considerably detracts from what should be
their ornamental appearance in the greenhouse or conservatory.
Primroses (Chinese).--Give a few of the strongest and most forward a
shift into larger pots. The double varieties are very useful for cutting
where bouquets are much in request, as they do not drop the flowers like
the single varieties.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Great caution will now be necessary in the application of atmospheric
heat and humidity, as an excess of either will cause a premature and
unseasonable growth which no after-care could thoroughly rectify. The
thermometer for the majority of stove plants need not at any time of the
day exceed 60 deg., with a fall of 8 deg. or 10 deg. during the night.
Begonias.--They deserve a place in every stove, as they are plants of
easy cultivation, and bloom at a season when flowers are scarce; they
can also be introduced to the conservatory or sitting-room when in
bloom.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Hotbeds.--Keep up the heat of dungbeds by adding leaves and dung to the
linings; but not sufficient of the latter to cause a rank steam in the
frames.
Peaches.--If any vacancies occur in the late houses they should now be
filled up. We have before recommended trees of large size to be taken
from the walls for this purpose, but in so doing care should be taken
to select such sorts as the _Murray_, _Elruge_, and _Violette Hative_
Nectarines; _Noblesse_, _Royal George_, _Grosse Mignonne_, and
_Chancellor_ Peaches, being the best adapted for forcing. Some sorts are
of little value as forced fruit, although they may bear abundantly.
Pines.--Coverings to be used, and as little fire-heat as possible,
to keep up the required heat during the night. The heat of the
spring-fruiting and succession-houses to be gradually decreased, so
that it may range from 60 deg. to 65 deg.. The winter-fruiting plants to
range 10 deg. higher.
Vines.--The Grapes will require unremitting attention to keep the
house dry, and to cut out the decayed berries. It will, we suppose, be
generally observed that the fruit that was ripe before wet weather sets
in will keep better than the more backward ones, which may be a useful
hint "to make hay while the sun shines," or, in other words, to
ripen the fruit in good time. Prune and dress the Vines in the
succession-houses as recommended for the early ones. When Vines
have been taken out of the house they should be protected from the
vicissitudes of the weather, as they are sometimes greatly injured by
being exposed to excessive wet and severe frosts.
SECOND WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Continue to admit air in favourable weather, but not in currents; shut
up early; use water sparingly, and always tepid--giving little or none
to succulents and plants in a state of rest.
Flowers.--Where there is a pit at liberty it may now be prepared for
forcing flowers. The glass must be thoroughly cleaned, as light is of
importance at this season. The tree leaves when gathered to be mixed
with a portion of well-prepared dung, to produce an early action, and
about nine inches of tan or sawdust placed over them in which to
plunge the pots. The plants, if in proper condition, may be introduced
immediately--viz. Azaleas, Camellias, Persian Lilacs, Gardenias, Moss
and Provence Roses, Rhododendrons, Sweet Briars, Honeysuckles, &c.
The Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, and other bulbs that have been potted
early, as advised in due season, may be introduced successively in small
quantities when the buds are an inch or two long, plunging them in any
out-of-the-way part of the pit, covering them for a time with four or
five inches of old tan.
Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Water them sparingly. Dry the atmosphere
if necessary by lighting a slight fire on fine days. Give air freely.
Pelargoniums.--Shift and tie out as they may require. A few of the most
forward may be accelerated by a little heat.
Primroses (Chinese).--Water with caution. Two or three small pegs to be
stuck into the soil around each, to keep the stem and plant erect in the
pot. Thin out weak and deformed bloom-buds.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
The resting section of Orchids should now be allowed to settle down
gently to their annual repose by withholding water at the root, by
diminishing the amount of atmospheric moisture, and by giving a more
liberal ventilation than in the growing season. The more evergreen
kinds--such as some of the Aerides, Dendrobiums, Saccolabiums, Vandas,
&c., to be favoured with the warmest situation.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Asparagus.--Where it is wanted early, preparations should now be made
for forcing it. Any old Cucumber or Melon-bed that still retains a
gentle heat may be used for the purpose. The plants to be placed as
closely as possible, and covered with three or four inches of any light
soil. The application of linings will supply any deficiency of heat that
may be caused by severe weather. When the heads come up, to be supplied
with an abundance of light and air.
Cherries.--Look over the plants in pots, and if they require shifting
into larger pots it may be done at once. The pots to be plunged in coal
ashes, or any other loose material, to protect the roots from frost, and
where they will commence rooting immediately.
Figs.--If the summer and autumn attention has been given to them, as
advised, very little, if any, winter pruning will now be required; but
if such is necessary it may be done as soon as the leaves fade. The
trees to be carefully washed clean all over with soap and water, and
then painted over with a mixture composed of one ounce of soft soap and
one ounce of sulphur to a quart of water. Trees in pots to be shifted,
or top-dressed, as may be necessary. Shifting is only recommended when
it is desirable to increase the size of the trees. To be afterwards
placed in a shed with the pots plunged in leaves.
Pines.--The plants on which the fruit has recently appeared to be
encouraged with heat and moderate moisture; but those that are likely to
"show" for the next two months to be supplied with a temperature to keep
them progressing slowly that they may be just beginning to swell their
fruit when the days and sun are lengthening and strengthening. The state
of temperature of the beds recently renewed with tan to be examined
frequently, as they sometimes become suddenly too hot. Now, when Oak and
other tree leaves can be collected, it is advisable to use half leaves
and half dung for lining the pits heated by fermenting materials; the
leaves contribute to make the heat more regular and lasting. Give no
water to the succession plants during dull weather except to such
plants as are near the flues and pipes, and are apt to get over-dry in
consequence.
Sea-kale.--If this delicious vegetable is wanted early, a small hotbed
should be made in some convenient place; the roots to be taken up and
placed upon it, covered with a little light soil, and protected by
boards or any other contrivance most convenient and suitable to exclude
light and the inclemency of the weather.
Rhubarb.--The same as advised for Sea-kale. Where a Mushroom-house is at
work is the best place for both.
Vines.--All fading leaves to be removed from the Vines on which fruit
is hanging, and the house to be kept dry, light, and airy, and free from
anything likely to create mould or damp.
THIRD WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Careful attention should now be given to the picking off mouldy and dead
leaves, decaying flower-stems, &c., as they spread contagion wherever
they touch. Drip to be prevented, and atmospheric humidity to be
disposed of by a gentle day fire occasionally, and the free admission of
air.
Azaleas (Chinese).--Introduce a few into heat for early bloom. The _A.
Indica alba_ and _Phoenicea_ are best to begin with; to be succeeded
by _Smith's coccinea_, and after it any of the other varieties. As
decorations for the conservatory or drawing-room they are invaluable
where they continue for six weeks or two months in perfect beauty.
Camellias.--Water, when necessary, to be given in a slightly tepid
state, and plenty of air, that the buds may be allowed to swell full and
prominent by a slow but sure process. If bloom is required early, to be
forwarded by introducing them into a situation where heat is applied.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Withhold moisture entirely from the roots of deciduous Orchids, and
such as are sinking into a state of repose. Any late specimens, or
importations, making late growths to be favoured with the best light
situations in the house and a little water, to keep up the vitality
sufficient to produce the secretions necessary to carry them safely
through the dull days of winter. Look over all growing plants, and see
that they do not suffer for want of water. Look to every Orchid,
even the smallest growing on blocks or in baskets, they all require
attention. Repot or surface dress any that require it. A favourable
day to be chosen to wash the lights for the more free admission of that
agent most indispensable for their health. The whole to be kept neat,
and free from insects; and the plants on stages, tables, or suspended
from blocks, baskets, &c., to be arranged in a manner the most suitable
for a picturesque and pleasing effect.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Where early forcing is intended it is advisable to give a thorough
cleansing to the houses by limewashing and dressing the wood of
Cherries, Figs, Peaches, Vines, &c., as frequently directed.
Beans (Dwarf Kidney).--Sow in six-inch pots; when crocked to be filled
within three inches of the rim with a compost consisting of old Cucumber
or Melon mould, rotten dung and leaf mould in about equal proportions.
To be placed in any convenient part of the forcing-house for a few days
until the soil is warm. The Beans are then sown about ten or twelve in
each pot, and pressed by the finger about an inch below the soil. In a
week they will be up; to be then thinned out, according to the strength
of the plants, to six or eight in each, and to receive a gentle
watering. When the two first leaves are fully developed the plants to
be earthed up as high as the cotyledons. To be regularly syringed and
watered at the roots, taking especial care that they do not become
too wet, or they will damp off. When they have made two joints to be
stopped, to cause them to produce laterals and bearing branches. The
plants to be placed as close to the glass as possible. The _Chinese
Dwarf_ and _Fulmer_ are good sorts for forcing.
Figs.--A temperature of about 40 deg. will suit them at present; if
allowed to get lower they are very apt to suffer. Trees in pots to be
removed to any house where that degree of temperature is kept up.
Peaches.--Where the roots are inside, and have been kept dry, an
application of weak, clear liquid manure, at the temperature of summer
heat (76 deg.), will act as a stimulant to the roots, whose services are
required before much excitement takes place at top.
Pines.--Now, at the dullest season of the year, it is necessary to be
very cautious in regulating the bottom and surface temperatures, more
especially in the succession-houses or pits; a bottom heat of about 70
deg., with a steady top temperature of about 60 deg. during the day, and
about 55 deg. during the night, will keep the plants in a comparatively
comfortable state of rest, neither allowing the temperature to decline
so low as to reduce their vitality to such a degree as to endanger their
restoration to vigour in proper season, nor to rise so high as to excite
them into a growth that would be immature for want of solar light and
heat. A moderate application of water will also be necessary.
Vines.--When the Grapes are all cut, prune the Vines without loss of
time, that the wounds may have sufficient time to get perfectly healed
before they are excited into growth. If delayed until early spring,
bleeding will be sure to follow. Vines in pots intended for forcing
should either be placed within the protection of the house appropriated
to them, or secured from the effects of severe weather.
FOURTH WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
The great object should now be to keep them moderately dry; water, when
necessary, to be given in the forenoon. Gentle fires to be applied in
the daytime, with a sufficiency of air to allow the vapour to pass off.
All decaying leaves, flower-stalks, &c., to be carefully picked off. All
weeds, moss on the surface of pots, or anything else that would tend to
cause dampness, mildew, or decomposition, to be cleared away. Pinch off
the tops of any of the half-hardy plants that are growing too rapidly.
Climbers.--To be closely tied, that they may interfere as little as
possible with the admission of light.
Forcing Pit.--The various plants described in former Calendars, and
recommended to be forwarded here for furnishing the drawing-room,
conservatory, or mixed greenhouse, will require careful and skilful
attention. Moderate syringings with tepid water to be given on suitable
occasions. Fire heat to be applied, more especially in the daytime, with
air at every favourable opportunity. The pit to be shut up early, and
the heat to be husbanded by external coverings in preference to night
heat. Syringings with the Gishurst Compound, or frequent and moderate
fumigations of tobacco smoke, to be given to destroy green fly. The
water to be always tepid when applied to the roots or branches when they
require it.
New Holland Plants.--As they are very apt to suffer when exposed to cold
draughts of air, and as they are generally wintered in the same house
with the more hardy sorts of greenhouse plants, they should occupy a
part of the house where air can be admitted, when necessary, from the
top lights only.
Orange Trees.--Advantage to be taken of unfavourable weather for
out-door work, to clean the foliage of Orange trees and Camellias. It
is as essential to the health of such things that the foliage be kept
clean, and, therefore, in a fit state to perform its functions, as that
their roots be kept in a healthy, active state.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Asparagus.--Make a slight hotbed of tree leaves, if they can be
procured, of size or substance sufficient only to cause a gentle heat.
The roots may be taken up from the open ground, and planted at once in
the bed. Mice and slugs to be looked after. Any vacant pits, or frames,
may be made available for the purpose of forcing Asparagus.
Cherries.--To be treated as advised for Peaches.
Cucumbers.--If the plants are strong, and you have a full command of
bottom and atmospheric heat, you may calculate, with a little attention,
upon ultimate success. Air to be admitted when it is safe to do so,
to get the leaves dry, if possible, daily. Light is indispensable, and
steep-roofed houses, or pits, are preferred for that object in winter.
The early nursing-box for young plants should be well supplied with
linings, the glass washed clean and kept in good repair.
Mushrooms.--Continue to prepare succession-beds as formerly directed.
The beds that have been in bearing some time, if the surface is dry, to
be watered with clear, weak liquid manure, a few degrees warmer than the
temperature of the house.
Peaches.--The early house should now be set in order, by being
thoroughly cleansed, whitewashed, and the trees pruned, dressed, and
tied. Air to be given during the day, and the house to be shut up at
night for a fortnight or three weeks, preparatory to the commencement of
forcing.
Pines.--The principal objects of attention during this dull season
should comprise a moderate declension of heat and moisture, and a
moderate supply of air at all times when it can be admitted with safety.
When heat is supplied by fermenting materials the linings will require
some sort of covering--as straw, fern, boards, or shutters--to protect
them from cold winds, frosts, or rains; only a gentle bottom heat is
now required at this, that should be, their season of rest, as a dry and
moderately warm atmosphere is nearly all they will require. If the young
plants are growing in pits heated solely by dung linings, be careful to
exclude the steam from the dung, as excess of damp will rot the hearts
of the plants.
Vines.--If early Grapes are required, it is advisable to adopt the
old-fashioned plan of placing some sweet hot dung inside the house, to
produce an atmosphere that is most congenial for softening the wood,
and for "breaking" the buds. The roots, if outside, to be covered with
a good depth of litter, to produce an increase of heat by fermentation,
and to prevent the escape of terrestrial heat. All Vines casting their
leaves to be pruned immediately.
DECEMBER.
FIRST WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Every endeavour should now be made to keep these houses as gay as
possible. Fire-heat to be applied occasionally during dull, dark, or
rainy weather, taking care not to raise the temperature too high--say
greenhouse from 50 deg. to 55 deg. by day and from 40 deg. to 45 deg. by
night; conservatory 60 deg. by day and 50 deg. by night. Chrysanthemums
to be removed as soon as they get shabby, to be succeeded by early
Camellias. The _Euphorbia jacquiniflora_ is well worthy of attention
now; it requires but a very moderate allowance of water at this season,
as the least saturation or interference with the root action will cause
the leaves to turn yellow while the plant is in flower. _Poinsettia
pulcherrima_ is also worthy of particular attention as a noble
ornamental flower at this season. The old _Plumbago Capensis_ and
_rosea_ still retain their places amongst our best plants at this
season. Acacias and Cytisuses, being yellow and showy, give, with the
other flowers, a variety of colours to beautify the whole. _Gesnera
zebrina_ should not be forgotten; the elegant markings of the leaves
contribute to enhance the beauty of this beautiful winter flower.
Heaths.--As fire-heat is generally injurious to this tribe of plants
it is advisable to be very cautious in its application. They can bear a
good deal of cold and some degrees of frost without sustaining any very
serious injury; but they cannot bear the drying influence of fire-heat
without serious damage to their foliage, and which is very frequently
death to the plants. They will require but very little water, especially
the large specimens, which should be very particularly examined as to
their state of dryness or otherwise, as a guide to the application or
withholding of water. An abundance of air to be given on fine days, to
keep the plants from growing.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
A cautious application of fire-heat to be still observed here. The
temperature to be kept rather low than otherwise, for fear of exciting
premature growth. A small portion of air to be admitted on fine days, to
purify the atmosphere of the house. Keep the surface of the soil in the
pots free from weeds, as also from moss and lichen; but when doing so
do not loosen the soil so as to injure the roots near the surface. Keep
every plant free from dead leaves, and all climbing plants neatly tied
up. The Achimenes, Clerodendrons, Erythrinas, Gloxinias, and the various
bulbs will now be approaching a state of repose, and therefore will
require but little or no water. To prevent confusion or mistakes it is
advisable to place them on a shelf, or some other part of the house,
by themselves. Although dormant, or nearly so, they require a stove
temperature to keep them safe and sound.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Asparagus and Sea-kale.--Make up beds as wanted.
Mushrooms.--Keep a moist atmosphere in the house, and the temperature
steadily at or near 60 deg.. A fresh bed to be made and spawned every
three or four weeks, to produce successional crops.
Pines.--The fruit now swelling will require the temperature and moisture
of the house or pit to be kept up. Those intended for the main crop
to be kept in a regular state, allowing them air at every favourable
opportunity, with a day temperature from 70 deg. to 75 deg. and from 55
deg. to 60 deg. at night. Plants in bloom to receive careful attention.
Keep the atmosphere dry with a brisk temperature, admitting a little
fresh air at favourable opportunities, to prevent them from being
injured by damp. When the heat is kept up by dung linings, constant
watching will be necessary to prevent any fluctuation of temperature,
having materials at hand to assist in case of frost.
Vines.--Where forcing has commenced attend to the breaking of the Vines
by the application of fermenting manure inside the house, as advised
last week, which will be found the best means of keeping the atmosphere
regularly moist; but if such cannot be used, the wood should be syringed
frequently, and evaporating-pans, or troughs, kept full of water. The
roots, if outside, to be protected, and afforded a steady, gentle warmth
until the buds are fairly swelled. As it is advisable to proceed very
slowly with early Vines, the temperature to range from 55 deg. to 60
deg. by day and from 45 deg. to 50 deg. by night, and even rather
under than over the above scale. Late Grapes will require great care to
preserve them from damp. Look over them frequently, and dry the house by
fire during the day.
SECOND WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Every dead, decaying, and mouldy leaf, and flowerstalk, to be removed
as soon as they are seen. Mildew to be banished by an application of
flowers of sulphur, and afterwards to be prevented from making its
appearance by a free ventilation on clear, mild mornings, using a little
fire heat at the same time. Great caution is now necessary in giving
water to the plants, more especially to such as have not well matured
their growth, and are in a rather soft state. It is also advisable
to look over them every morning, that the flagging of a leaf may be
noticed, and the necessary supply of water be given. All pots to be
turned around occasionally to keep the plants uniform.
Calceolarias.--Remove all decayed leaves, and be careful to give no more
water than is really required. Keep down green fly.
Cinerarias.--No more fire heat to be given than is necessary to keep out
frost. The plants intended for large specimens to receive their final
shift; air to be given on all occasions in favourable weather. Every one
that is getting pot-bound to be shifted. Green fly to be kept down by
fumigating. The most forward to have the lightest place in the house,
close to the glass, with sufficient space for the air to circulate
freely around the foliage of each.
Pelargoniums.--To be kept rather cool and dry; fire heat to be avoided,
except when necessary to prevent the temperature falling below 40 deg.,
or to dispel damp. Every plant intended for early bloom to be arranged
in the best form. The system of arranging a piece of twisted bass under
the rim of the pot, to which loops are fastened to secure the shoots
and the better formation of the plant, obviates the too-extensive use of
sticks, a superfluity of which is at all times objectionable.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
Continue to act as advised lately. Care and caution in the application
of water are more especially required, as there is not a single feature
in the cultivation of plants during the winter in which the amateur is
more likely to err, and by reason of which a greater amount of injury
is sustained, than in the application of water either in its fluid or
vaporous state. If applied to the soil in superabundance, the roots,
being inactive, are certain to sustain some degree of injury; and if
it is applied in excess to the atmosphere in the form of vapour, the
exhalations from the leaves of the plants will be checked in consequence
of the density of the medium that surrounds them when they will be sure
to suffer.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cucumbers.--Sow some good variety for planting out next month. A
one-light frame on a well-worked bed of dung and leaves is most suitable
for the purpose, as producing an atmosphere moist and congenial for
their healthy vegetation and growth.
Peaches.--Syringe the trees that are just started and swelling the buds,
and keep every plant clean and neat.
Pines.--When the application of fire heat is necessary during severe
weather, it is advisable to pay particular attention to those that have
done blooming and swelling off in various stages, that they may not
receive a check from being over-dry at the roots.
Vines.--Leaves, or dung, or both mixed together, when used to produce
fermentation, and a sweet vaporous atmosphere to "break" the early
Vines, should be turned and watered at least once a-week. Keep the wood
generally moist, and proceed in forcing with caution as before advised.
As the most essential point in early forcing is to secure a healthy and
vigorous root action, it is advisable, if the Vines are planted
inside, to excite the roots by an occasional application of water at a
temperature from 85 deg. to 90 deg.. It the Vines are planted outside,
a steady heat of about 60 deg. should be maintained by the fermenting
matter placed on the border to be frequently turned over, and protected
with dry litter from the frost or other unfavourable weather. Houses
intended to commence forcing the early part of next month, to have some
fermenting materials placed on the borders to excite the roots a little
before the Vines are started, which will be of some assistance to make
the buds push strongly and without much loss of time. To induce the
buds to break regularly throughout the whole length of the Vine, it is
frequently necessary to bend the rod so as to incline the most forward
buds to the lowest level, and to elevate the most backward.
THIRD WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
As many of the hard-wooded plants are impatient of fire heat and a
confined atmosphere, it is advisable to use no more artificial heat
than is absolutely necessary. The drying effects of fire heat must be
counteracted by a supply of moisture; the moisture becomes condensed on
the glass and falls in drips, that are apt to spoil the beauty of the
flowers, and to injure the foliage of the plants. The best corrective
for such unfavourable results is to be found in keeping the temperature
as low as may be consistent with the safety of the plants, and in
withholding moisture as much as possible whenever the glass is affected
by frost. See that the young stock of Heliotropes, Scarlet Geraniums,
Persian Cyclamens, and other such flowers, that are grown especially
for winter, are accommodated with a light, airy situation, and receive
regular attention as regards watering. Avoid watering the Pelargoniums
until they are thoroughly dry, and keep down insects.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
The plants in the stove should be kept as quiet as possible, and
only just sufficient water given to keep them from flagging, to be
accompanied with a moderately low temperature; about 60 deg. by day, and
50 deg. by night, the object being to prevent them from growing before
the spring of the year. Admit air when it can be done safely, but do not
expose the plants to cold, frosty winds at any time. As our collections
of Orchids are from countries with different seasons of growth, and
various kinds of temperature and climate, it is difficult to cultivate
in one house a miscellaneous collection of them so satisfactorily as
where there are two divisions, the one commanding a higher temperature,
with more moisture, than the other. Where there is no such division,
advantage may be taken of a forcing-pit, or other such house, to which
any of them now in a growing state may be removed, and thus their
growth may be promoted without injury to the general collection. For
the general collection a drier atmosphere and lower temperature are
now desirable, as no plants are more benefited by a season of rest than
Orchids.
FORCING-HOUSES.
All Vines, Peaches, and Figs in Pots, or Tubs, to be secured from frost
and wet. A fermenting body in a forcing vinery is an excellent plunging
medium for such of these as are wanted very early. Keep up a succession
of Asparagus, French Beans, Rhubarb, Sea-kale, &c., according to the
demand.
Cucumbers.--Thin out the fruit occasionally, more especially if too many
appear at one time. If any plants have been bearing some time, and now
appear nearly exhausted, they may be rallied into vigour again by a
judicious pruning and thinning, and by the application of a top dressing
of leaf mould or other such rich, light soil, and of liquid manure
occasionally.
Peaches.--A moist heat, arising from dung or leaves, is as beneficial to
Peach trees as to Vines before they break, but as it can but rarely be
made use of, in consequence of the difference in the structure of the
interior, moisture must be supplied by other means, such as syringing
and sprinkling the flues, or pipes, when warm. A few trees, in pots, are
useful for early forcing, as they can be easily plunged in a pit or any
other convenient place where a mild regular bottom heat can be supplied.
The trees for this purpose must have been grown and established for some
time in pots.
Pines.--A regular heat, both bottom and atmospheric, to be kept up to
carry the general stock of fruiting plants safely through the winter.
A high and close temperature to be avoided in the management of the
succession plants.
Strawberries.--If ripe fruit is wanted very early, some of the strongest
plants, if treated as advised, should now be selected, and placed in
a pit where they can get a gentle bottom heat, or on the back or front
shelf of a vinery or Peach-house, just started for forcing, to be placed
near the glass with a free admission of air on fine days.
Vines.--It is advisable, when beginning to force, to commence with a low
temperature--say, 55 deg. by day and 50 deg. by night, to be increased
5 deg. more until they break, when it may be raised to 60 deg. at night,
and 65 deg. in the day, or thereabouts, allowing a rise of a few degrees
by sun heat. The Vines to be syringed evening and morning until they
break, and the walls and floor kept damp. If the stems of the Vines
are near the flues, or pipes, wrap moss over that part, and keep it
constantly moist. The Vines in the late houses to be pruned, the loose
bark to be removed, and the scale, if visible, to be banished by an
application of the Gishurst Compound, or by the more ancient composition
of sulphur, soft soap, and tobacco water. Where the fruit is ripe, a
little fire heat will be necessary in frosty weather to prevent the
vapour that adheres to the glass on the inside being frozen, for the
moisture on thawing is apt to drop upon the bunches causing injury to
the bloom, and decay to the berries.
FOURTH WEEK.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.
Continue to keep the supply of heat and moisture at the lowest degree
compatible with the safety of the plants from frosts. In damp, foggy
weather, a gentle fire to be applied occasionally during the day
to expel moist, stagnant air. During severe winterly weather it is
advisable to be cautious in the application of heat, more especially at
night. From 45 deg. by night to 50 deg. by day will be sufficient
for the conservatory, and 40 deg. for the mixed greenhouse. To give a
pleasing variety to the appearance of these houses it is advisable
to rearrange the plants occasionally; those going out of flower to be
removed, and a fresh supply introduced from the forcing-pit. All plants
in these and other departments to be regularly looked over, removing
the dead leaves and tying in straggling branches. The surface soil to
be stirred a little, and some fresh added. As all compost-heaps are
benefited by exposure to frosts, it is advisable to turn over the caked
or frozen surface every morning, until the whole is turned over and
penetrated by the frost, by which grubs and all such kinds of vermin are
destroyed, and the soil considerably ameliorated.
Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--To be shifted into larger pots if they
require them, to be kept near the glass, to be watered moderately
through a fine rose, and on no account to be allowed to get thoroughly
dry. To be careful when removing decayed leaves, not to pull or to cut
them off too close to the stem, by which the flower-shoots would be very
likely to get injured.
Camellias.--Great care is necessary that they may not be exposed to
great alternations of temperature, which are sure to cause them to drop
their flower-buds. The great reason why flower-buds very often fall off
without properly coming into bloom, is the too sudden changes in the
temperature to which they are exposed. For instance: when the buds are
nearly ready to expand, a sudden heat causes them to push too rapidly;
and, on the contrary, a decrease of warmth at the time checks their
growth, and in other cases causes them to fall. The heat required to
expand the blossom-buds is about 60 deg. by day, and 50 deg. by night.
If this be attended to, the plants will continue in flower for a great
length of time, as the plants in that heat are not excited to grow.
A little weak manure water to be given occasionally to the blooming
plants.
Chrysanthemums.--When they begin to fade, to be removed to the north
side of a wall or fence, the pots to be plunged in old tan, leaves, or
sawdust, to protect them from the severity of winter.
Cytisuses.--Place them and other such early-flowering plants in the
coldest part of the house, where they may receive plenty of air at all
favourable opportunities.
Orange Trees.--These, or other such plants that have not been recently
potted, to be surfaced by removing a little of the top soil and
supplying its place with fresh. Attention to be paid to keeping the
leaves clean and healthy.
STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.
As it would be improper to attempt to maintain the same degree of
heat in any structure, when the external temperature is below the
freezing-point as may be permitted if it were 10 deg. or 15 deg. above
freezing, we would advise from 50 deg. by night to 60 deg. by day, for
the stove and Orchid-house. As many plants, especially Orchids, suffer
from drip at this season, a careful look-out should be kept, and either
the cause remedied or the plants removed. The decoration of the hothouse
would now depend in a great measure upon Begonias, Euphorbias, Luculias,
&c. Such plants should be carefully tied up and placed in the
most conspicuous situations, or some of them may be removed to the
conservatory so as to prolong their season of blooming.
Allamandas.--Continue the temperature and treatment as lately advised.
To be potted, as also _Stephanotis_, &c., and trained preparatory to
starting them into growth, about the beginning of the new year.
Forcing-pit.--Introduce such plants as are generally used for forcing,
especially the sweet-scented sorts, Lily of the Valley, Sweet Briar,
Lilacs, some of the Tea, Bourbon, or Hybrid Perpetual Roses, and bulbous
plants.
Ixoras.--To be elevated near the glass to set their bloom, and to have
plenty of air at favourable opportunities.
FORCING-HOUSES.
Cucumbers.--No diminution of heat to be allowed after the plants are
ridged out and in action.
Peaches.--It is becoming very much the fashion to have Peach and some
other sorts of fruit trees which are wanted for early forcing in pots,
and the plan is so far good, that it affords the advantage of being able
to give the roots a mild, regular bottom heat, which is of the greatest
importance in early forcing. Those who have good established trees, in
pots, may now start them in a moderate heat. Air to be given liberally
in favourable weather, and the syringe to be used freely over them
morning and evening. The surface soil to be stirred up and kept open,
and a supply of manure water to be given previous to starting them. The
trees in the late houses to receive whatever pruning is necessary, and
to be cleansed of every particle of scale, and afterwards washed with a
composition of soft soap and sulphur. All bast ties and insect-haunts to
be carefully removed.
Pines.--During the continuance of severe weather, dry fern, straw, &c.,
will be necessary, in addition to mats; such coverings will be of more
service than maintaining strong fires to keep up the temperature. When
a supply of fruit is required throughout the year, it is sometimes
necessary, at this season, to subject some of the plants to a high
temperature to start them into fruit. A few of such as are most likely
to fruit soon, to be put into a pit, or house, by themselves, where a
temperature of from 60 deg. to 65 deg. by night, and from 70 deg. to 75
deg. by day, with about 80 deg. of bottom heat, will be the most certain
treatment for starting them into fruit. The other plants can then be
supplied with a moderate temperature until the beginning of February;
by such treatment a succession of fruit will be prolonged. Do not suffer
the linings of dung-beds to decline, keep up, if possible, a temperature
of 50 deg. at night, and 60 deg. by day, with a little air at every
favourable opportunity.
Potatoes.--Plant some sound, whole sets, singly, in
three-and-a-half-inch pots, to be placed at the back of a Pine-pit, or
in any other place where there is some heat, they will, in due time, be
useful for planting out in the exhausted Asparagus-frames or pits.
Raspberries.--When a few early dishes would be considered a treat,
if some canes are taken up and planted in any vacant spot in the
Peach-house, they will be found to bear fruit abundantly with common
care. It is a more certain method of obtaining fruit than by potting
them.
Vines.--When started and until the buds are fairly broken, endeavour to
keep the points of the shoots nearly on a level with the lowest part of
the Vine, and if that should not be found sufficient to induce the buds
to start regularly throughout the whole length of the Vine, the rod
should be bent so as to bring the most forward buds to the lowest level,
and elevating those that are backward. A moist atmosphere to be kept up
by sprinkling the floor and paths, and by syringing the Vines lightly
every morning and evening until the leaves begin to appear, when the
supply of moisture will not be so much required. Introduce a lot in pots
to some house, pit, or frame prepared with leaves or manure, if not done
as advised last week. At first, Vines in pots are most useful for early
work, as they, in many places, save the established Vines in houses,
from the hazardous operation of early excitement. Increase the
temperature slightly when the buds are beginning to swell, or are
starting a little. The fermenting material in the house to be stirred up
occasionally. This fermenting material should, if possible, consist of
a large proportion of leaves mixed with the dung, to prevent the steam
from the latter discolouring the rafters and sashes; and if the vapour
is likely to be too strong, a thin covering of sawdust or old tan will
prevent any injurious effects. If the roots are outside the house, and
had been covered before the commencement of frost, as advised, some more
dung and leaves should be added to keep up a genial heat in the border,
the good effects of which will be soon evident in the progress of the
Vines inside. When the Grapes are all cut in the late houses, the Vines
to be pruned immediately, and the cuts to be covered with white lead.
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